On far left side of the cliff, same start as Skeleton in My Closet, then head up and right to some vertical thin cracks that lead you directly up to the 2-bolt anchor.

Mrs. Magoo

Magnetic North

Acrobat's Overhang

Skeleton in My Closet

Technicolor Yawn

Treasure Island

Lemon Lime

Dead Reckoning

The Reach Around

Left-most route, starting at a steep flake, then up a slab (crux) past 2 bolts. There is a fixed pin at the top for a directional, then move up and right to the 2-bolt anchor.

Shares the first bolt with Technicolor Yawn.

Start directly above a yucca on the right side of the wall and head up to the first bolt.  A #2 camalot can be placed in a hole to protect these moves if you don't want to risk landing in the yucca!  Make an awkward 5.9 move up and then step left into the groove.  Gear is available here.  Continue straight up the water groove to the next bolt.  Polished stemming takes you up directly to below the next bolt.  I couldn't reach the bolt from the logical stance, but a small nut placed up and right protects the stand-up move to clip the bolt.  Make fun face moves (10a) up to the third bolt.  From here, head straight up to the fourth bolt on easy terrain and then finally traverse left to the fixed anchors.  I suspect this upper bolt was placed specifically to protect the follower and it is a very good idea to clip it.

My partner and I both felt this route was more fun and slightly more difficult than its neighbor, Technicolor Yawn (graded harder in the guide).

Take care, as there is a death block in the final traverse just waiting to fall off!

Difficult moves up past three bolts after which the route joins Reach Around.  The crux is between the second and third bolt.

The Vogel guide lists this as 10c and 3 stars.  We both felt it was more like 10a and worth 1 star.  I placed a PG13 by this route, but realistically it is somewhere between PG13 and R.  There is a section of polished 5.8 that you absolutely do not want to fall on, so you be the judge.

On the right side of the wall, head straight up above a yucca plant to the first bolt. A #2 camalot can be placed perfectly in a hole to protect these moves should you desire (it would hurt to land on the yucca!).  Make an awkward 5.9 move up past the bolt and then step left.  Gear is available here.  Continue left past 2 bolts and into the polished water groove.   Continue up the groove (another #2 camalot and small TCU available here) and clip the dodgy fixed pin.  Make some polished insecure stem moves up to clip the next bolt.  The next section is advertised as the crux, and it felt about 10a.  Once past the bolt the moves continue to be polished, insecure, and littered with pine needles.  The moves aren't terribly hard (5.8ish), but a fall from these moves would send one back onto the lower angle terrain below - so don't fall!  Because you're climbing in a water groove, the rock is unusually polished for Joshua Tree - making the slight runout additionally insecure.  A small, sideways placed nut is available in this section, but it didn't inspire tremendous confidence.

My partner and I both felt that this route climbed more like a route at Suicide Rocks than Joshua tree because of the polished rock and pine needles in the crack (not necessarily a bad thing, just different).

Fixed anchors are available above the obvious tree.  Take care, as there is a death block in the final section just waiting to fall off!

This route shares the start of Magnetic North, but instead of breaking left, it continues up through cracks.  It seems as worthy as its over starred neighbor to the right.

Lemon Lime is a two-bolt direct start to Technicolor Yawn.   Hard pulls past the first two bolts lead to a shelf where the route meets TY.  Done this way, it  is the best route on the cliff.

The Vogel guide lists this as 5.9 and 3 stars.  We felt it was more like 5.8 and 1 star.

Rightmost route on the wall, identified by two bolts in the first half of the route.  Clip the first bolt and then head up and right into a small crack.  Good gear is available here to protect the crux (5.8+?).  Slab up a bit and then clip another bolt and then move left back into another crack (no gear) and then up and right to below a small roof.  More gear is available here.  Some crack moves lead to yet another traverse - this time to the to the right.  You end up on an airy little block and make one last move (5.7/5.8) to gain a blocky trough.  Follow this to the top.

The top is covered in loose blocks so be careful! Descend via the fixed anchors down and to the left (3rd class downclimb).

Left side of the cliff, begin 15 feet right of Mrs. Magoo on a block. Bouldery moves past 2 bolts takes you to a crack/groove.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Kaleidoscope Wall