Start up the lower angle brown slab with great pockets to reach the first clip.  Fire up the overhanging section on big jugs, passing four more bolts; dont stop, theres a good rest right under the big roof.  Clip the next bolt and take on the crux: traversing right below the roof, then up to a great hand.  Cruise jugs to the anchor.  This route is real dusty; just needs to see more traffic!  Rappel to descend.

[Redacted]

Black Hole Sun

1979

They Only Come Out At Night

Will Purr For Treats

Machine Gun Kelly

Scarface

On the Mushroom

Neopolitan Headrush

Let Me Out

On the Ritz

Stair Master

Goodfellas

Cerebral Brain Freeze

Razor Burn (aka Stewart's Slab)

I Have a Dream

Climb the sharp pocketed reddish face for 2 clips to an okay stance at the protruding block on the left at C3. Continuous, steep climbing on good holds past C3 with big, flat ledges and cruxy pulls at a tiered section puts you past C5 with a final hard pull past C6. At C6, a short run will get you to the anchors.

Start in the middle of a vertical, brown wall.  Nice pockets and crimps take you to the first clip.  The crux is working up on delicate feet and less than desirable hands, past a slight bulge.  Finish straight up on easier, yet sometimes delicate, terrain, to a two-bolt anchor below a big roof, shared with

Razor Burn (aka Stewart's Slab)

.  Rappel to descend.

The crux comes right off the ground with a couple bouldery moves on pockets to the left side of a ledge.  Move up to a shake out stance, puzzle through a couple more moves, and hit the anchors.

Somewhat committing moves lead to a fairly high first bolt. After the second clip, make an easy but dirty mantel (it will clean up with traffic). Clip the third bolt, and ascend the crux mantel just left of a small pine tree. Face climbing on sharp holds leads to the anchors.

Featured climbing on tan rock leads to a steep grey cap.  Clip, crank past the crux, and make a few delicate moves up to the anchors.

Start beneath the obvious, scary boulder and clamber up on to it from the left side. Make a couple cruxy reaches off of the boulder, and cruise to the top following the crack. The majority of this route, excluding the belay, remains in the shade until midday.

To find this route, hike west from the back to the [Future Area] for several hundred yards.  As you are hiking along the trail, keep an eye out for the [Mushroom Dome] formation that is the lower part of the route.  You will definitely know it when you see it because it is very unique.  It is route number 2 on [William Prehm's Neopolitan Headrush] area photo.

Begin face climbing up the [Mushroom Dome] on good pockets, past 2 bolts and a slightly difficult move or two.  The route then traverses a bit left to a small steep corner.  Crank like a banshee through this section and 3 bolts into a weird off balance blocky section.  The next bolt is way up to the left under the roof.  This section of climbing isn't mega tough, but it isn't easy and you will probably be carrying a substantial pump.  I would possibly give this section an 'R' rating, because if you come off you will probably eat the big ledge below you.  Make sure your belayer is ready to head for [Canon City] (meaning running belay to the south) if you do come off.  Once you get the  bolt under the roof clipped you can shake your pump out and deal with the stout boulder problem finish.  Crank pretty freakin' hard over the roof and keep looking up and to the left.  The anchors are difficult to see, but sometimes they have webbing on them.  Either bring some webbing and a ring to rap with, or you can hike to the west about a 100 yards and down a [gully] to the trail.

The crux comes right off the deck, so expect some tricky belaying with belayer and climber becoming intimate, better yet stick clip the second bolt.

After working out the pockets and crimps of the lower crux, cruise up to the shelf for a comfortable rest (or nap if it's sunny and warm). Clip the bolt and crank out of the roof.

Like the lower sequence, the roof here takes some vision to work out. Unlike the multiple choice questions on other Shelf climbs where deciding which chalked hold is the best, on NH deciding which unchalked hold that you may or may not see right now is best?

The route is a little short by shelf standards and the two cruxes are separated by a easy to achieve no hands rest, yet the route has very interesting moves on quality rock. Deserves more ascents than it appears to receive.

Stemming is the name of the game on this route.  Scramble up easy rock to a high first bolt while keeping your eyes peeled for a bulge at the third bolt.  Stem or crank your way through this to gain easier ground.  Above you will be a system of three cracks where optional jams and mandatory stemming will deposit you at the anchors.

This route is a 3 bolt shorty with stone like the Dark Side. It is barely worth it if you're looking for a short 11. Also, it is easily topped out if you want to experience the rock spikes.

Face climbing and stemming will get you up a series of three large ledges.

Scramble over a couple of ledges to reach the base of the tan wall.  Work up past three bolts on delicate holds to a black overhanging dihedral.  Stances are a bit awkward here.  Turn the bulge right of the bolt line while making the fourth clip.  Run up to the second roof on easier ground and clip the last bolt.  Take the roof head-on and fire up to jugs just below the anchor.  Footwork is key!  Rappel to descend.

A little bit steeper and more bouldery than your typical Shelf route. Begin with right hand on a small crimp sidepull at shoulder height. Jump your left hand for the obvious large pocket. Pull up on good rails and easy climbing to the ledge just below the roof. From there, it's a reachy move over the bulge to an awkward pull to get up on the slab. As with

Neapolitan Headrush

, it's fun moves on good rock that leaves you wanting more!

This route is listed in Bob D's new guidebook as Stewart's Slab.  Start on the right side of a vertical brown wall.  Pull through finger pockets and crimps past a slight bulge and finish up and left on easier terrain, to a two-bolt anchor below a big roof, shared with

Black Hole Sun

.  Rappel to descend.

Stem and chimney up the wide crack/corner on the right side of the alcove.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 03. Machine Gun Kelly