Jam up the handcrack through a bulge to a ledge. Above this is the crux, a short but strenuous overhanging fist crack section. Finish to the anchor on the much easier handcrack.

A variation at the bottom is a left-leaning crack (5.10+), cleaned in 2014 by Geoff Georges. At the top of this variation, traverse back right to upper Meat Grinder.

Meat Grinder

Dogleg Crack

Alphabet Soup

St. Vitus' Dance

Cat Arm Seam

Z Crack

A-Team

Hind Quarters

Jaws of Life

The crux is right at the base pulling over the overhang and feels stiff for the grade.  Hint: put your right foot on the right seam.  Stab for the nice finger jamb above then jamb the continuous fingercrack up to the anchor.

Start out by scrambling up the dihedral to gain the base of the finger to thin hand crack.  Jamb this to the top.  The crux section is in the first 15 feet of the crack, above that it is 5.7.

Start in a crack to the right of Meat Grinder. Climb up this around a bulge and onto a ledge, then up a little higher to a finger traverse left that joins the top of Meat Grinder.

Who would expect to find a wild overhanging sport route in this area?

Scramble to the top of a block to clip the first bolt under the overhang.  From here, big juggy moves take you up and left (some heel hooking chops might come in handy here).  You find yourself under a massive hueco into which you can crawl for a rest before popping back out onto the overhanging wall, and up over the lip.

Short sport climb up the prow on the right.

Alternate finish to Z-Crack.Climb that route to its final section, then traverse left to a thin seam.

A fun, granite face climb with some varied moves.

Start up on big holds with fun liebacking from flakes to a good rest just under the fourth bolt. Crimps and thin feet are the crux while getting past the fourth bolt.

Climbing through the fifth and six bolts is additional fun using some larger-but-not-entirely-positive holds. Good balance will see it through.

Start up a moderate crack, then maneuver up the hanging arête past 2 bolts to a rest.  Up the technical face to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Alphabet Rock