Begin behind a large, freestanding flake on the south side and scramble up to a tree at the edge of the east face.  Climb diagonally up and left, following the line of least resistance, reaching the summit in two pitches.

An alternate direct start climbs directly up the S Face from the vicinity of the flake to join the route above: 5.9+ R.

Southern Exposure

Five Year Plan aka Space Time Inversion

East Face/Back Porch

North Face Flake

Climb out the awesome, severly overhanging, right-diagonaling hand/ finger crack, utilizing the arete at the lip. Continuous crack climbing all the way to the lip.

This route begins up hill on the north side of the rock, about 100 feet from the east side.  The climb starts near a 2 foot arch.

P1:  Traverse south through a small overhang to get to onto the east face.  Follow the slab near the right edge for 30 feet. Traverse left and belay below a large V-shaped overhang.

P2: Traverse right below the overhang,  lieback the right facing dihedral or climb the slab next to it.  Pull left through the overhang after 25 feet and head up to a small tree.  There are 3 pieces of old fixed gear on this pitch.

P3:  Head up to the left through some boulders and pull an overhang near a fist crack.  Climb a fun runout slab for 30 feet and head right at a boulder.  Aim for a great finger crack at the top of the climb.

Descent:  Do a 150 foot rap to the west off of 2 old bolts.  (Back them up with a boulder)  The last ~80 feet are free and spectacular.  This descent can be done with 2 one rope raps. Make sure you check out the 5.13 roof problem on the west side called the "Five Year Plan".

P1: start on the North side of rock, and look for vertical crack above a short pod. The crack arches left on a giant flake. At the top of the flake, move left and into right-facing dihedral with a sling. The crux is in protecting 20' left traverse. Move up past sling to E face of the rock, belay near edge.

P2: join the

East Face route

, and finish to the top staying center in thin crack.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Backporch