Climb the thin seam with a tough start to a break at 15'. From the break, climb a bit left.

For those with steel balls, break out the pads, and get down to some old school V5 highballing.

Physical Graffiti

52-50

Brown Jack

Black Fish

Starfish Graveyard

Day One

Court Fees

Travesty

Guano Express

Nocturnal Animals

Cinch

Black Joe

Start low on a undercling rail. Using a kneebar, move out left to jugs before reaching the crimps out left, topping out the left side of the boulder over the rock slab landing. This was first done on a hot summer day with no pads.

Begin under the giant overhang to the south of

Black Fish

, but instead of questing out left through the prow, escape right to sloper rails at the lip. Continue up and left until you reach the good crack feature. Use it to mantel over.

Start with your ass basically in the dirt low on two obvious crimps, get a kneebar in, and deadpoint to a good crimp, do a rose move, and follow your hands back to the crimps making your way over the wall with a jump or heelhook.

The higher start to Nocturnal Animals, starts on right sidepull and an undercling crimp. Squeeze your way to the top using trickery.

Sit start on the waist-high slopey shelf just to the right of

Black Fish

. Traverse up and left with heel hooks and jugs, following the underside of the prow as you try not to dab on the adjacent slab.

For a slightly easier but still fun variation, you can throw out right to a jug about halfway through the climb, and top out on the slab.

While certainly not spectacular, this is a worthy route given the proximity to town.

The difficulty lies in navigating the right-facing rail at mid-height, in comparison to which the rest of the climbing is easy peasy lemon squeezy. Those not in the 6' club may find this hard for the grade.

This is a link-up starting on

Black Fish

and finishing on

Nocturnal Animals

. Start in a right kneebar, trend leftward using lip holds, and tension to finish

NA

. Crimps, pinches, pockets, slopers, toe hooks, heel hooks, and foot cuts - it's got it all!  The meat of the climbing is unique to this problem. The 'business' holds aren't used on either of the linked problems.

Start in the kneebar as for

Black Joe

or

52-50

, and climb straight up to the large rail feature. Traverse right until you reach the jug in the corner of the roof.

Reach to the next rail, and traverse back left. The crux is a big stab move to a relatively thin ledge. Top out!

This is the sit to

Starfish Graveyard

. Start sitting at the big horizontal rail at the base of boulder (the same starting rail as

Black Joe

) on 2 crimps. Work your way into the compression rail, and go to the top of the boulder, losing the landing as you turn the lip. It is committing, hard, and thuggish. This is one of the best compression lines at The Reservoir.

Cinch is a highball testpiece. Mantel, follow it by getting a sloping hold and a battle at an awkward dihedral, and pucker it up for the topout.

Start low on the kneebar start of

52-50

, but instead move straight up the face after the jug sequence, using small crimps.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in North Quarry