J Nasties climbs the obvious, right leaning dihedral. Start by doing a rightward undercling traverse beneath the overhanging block. Pull around the right edge and head up the main corner. The whole thing is sort of awkward and sustained. I recall the crux being near the top of the climb, where you need to pull out of the dihedral and over a bulge onto a lower angled ramp. Belay and rappel from a cord wrapped boulder.

J Nasties

Lunatic

Cowboy Curse

Skullduggery

Grizzly

Summer Session

Semantics (AKA Some Antics)

Trust Issues

Outlier

Approach Pitch Left

Trust Me, I Lie

Bear My Soul

Broad Border

Summer Vacation

Cowboy Bebop

Soul to Bear

Open Project

Approach Pitch Right

Hippie Vest

Behavior Issues

Start on the ledge at the far right end of the slab. Step left to the first bolt, and follow the line up and slightly left until it links into Behavior Issues.

Start in the bowl 40 feet up under the impressive overhanging wall. Climb through four bolts of amazing, Red River Gorge-style varnish pockets to a shallow body-sized hueco. A stretch and some delicate moves up and right gain the flake on the arete, and six more bolts of sustained, steep jugs finally brings you to the anchor. Pumpy. Once it's fully cleaned up, it will be every inch its four stars.

Pitch 1: Start as for Cowboy Bebop. Where that route cuts around the arete, continue up and right on the slab through a short thin section until the good crimps and jugs are gained. Follow these to an anchor. 5.10b.   Pitch 2: Head up and left, following the leftmost bolt line on the slab. Relaxing climbing on good varnish holds leads to a ledge and the easing of the slab's angle. Traverse right into Hippie Vest's boltline, and finish on that route. 5.8.

Climb the right approach pitch (5.5) to an anchor below the corner, then head up the steep corner with the finger to hand crack and small face holds. When the wall kicks back, the crack widens abruptly and the large holds appear on the righthand wall.

Climb the left approach pitch (5.6) to a bowl with an anchor, then climb the right line of bolts to a standing rest below a steep varnished wall. Climb through three bolts of positive holds that get smaller and smaller, until faced with a tiny crimp and very long reach just below the anchor (crux). A lovely climb; my favorite on the wall.

Climb the right approach pitch (5.5) to an anchor below the large corner, then step right and follow the right-hand line of bolts up an arete and then through an alley of ribbed huecos and horizontal pinches to a sit-down rest atop a small pillar. Follow the line up and around a roof to the left where a thin section past a short rightward traverse proves to be the crux. A cool climb.

Start in the bowl below Lunatic. 4th class it out left until in cracks below the pillar, then work these up until you can follow the steep splitter crack up and around the right side of it. Once on the pillar, follow the two bolts to the anchor of Lunatic. 

  Notes on the first ascent: I rapped in to remove a large rotten block that sat just after the horizontal layback section. Not having a large enough brush, the large flat ledge and surrounding holds that were left behind remained fairly sandy. The crack itself was flashed after this cleaning, clocking in at about 10c. Aside from the four foot section that had to be cleaned, the rock is solid, and climbs as good as it looks.   I had already climbed the two bolts off the pillar as part of the route Summer Vacation. Thus, me linking the Semantics crack into this route was not a flash proper.    All in all cool route requiring a variety of techniques: stemming, jams, laybacking, and steep face climbing, all in one 95 foot chunk of stone.

Route starts on Trust Me, I Lie and finishes on Behavior Issues.

Climb the right approach pitch (5.5) to an anchor below the huge corner, then follow the left line of bolts up the steep right-hand wall. The wall steepens at the end, but the holds transform from good crimps to large jugs.

Follows the left line up the low angle slab through some very nice moves for the grade.

Pitch 1: Start in the middle of the slab on a nice flat perch. Climb the easy slab to some thin and slabby moves above a bolt (crux), or bail into the seam left. Clip one (or two) bolts on Behavior Issues, then continue up and left on a giant hollow varnish plate. Up and over this to an anchor. 5.10a.   Pitch 2: Climb straight up through the mellow slab to a sloping ledge, traverse right, and finish on the wide crack of the second pitch of Behavior Issues. 5.8.

Climb the left approach pitch (5.6) to a large bowl with an anchor, then take the left bolt line up a narrow rib of rock. Delicate moves at the top of this rib prove to be the crux, with easy terrain following to an anchor.

Really a variation of Summer Session. Climb that route to the top of the pillar, but then follow the two bolts to the right through cool varnished crimpers to the anchor of Lunatic.

Start on the arete between the steep and slab walls of the Fringe. Climb the crack and arete around onto the pillar on the left side of the slab, then follow  the boltline just right of the arete until there's an option to split. Make exposed but safe moves around the arete onto the steep wall, joining into the base of the flake, and follow this into the last half of Lunatic. Looks great, but the few independent moves on the line add little to the climb overall.

Climb the left approach pitch (5.6) to a bowl with an anchor, and then follow the first three bolts of Bear My Soul. From here, break right into a left facing corner, and follow the line up and around some rotten rock where the corner steepens (crux). Easy climbing to an anchor off right, or link into Bear My Soul to finish.

The impressive line between the approach pitches' anchors, capped by a very steep roof. From the 5.5 approach pitch anchor, scramble across the 4th class ramp to the center of the vertical wall. Clip bolt one, make a few moves through an opening 5.11 sequence, and follow the line for four more bolts until you're about 9 feet below the roof. Make several very hard moves on micro crimps until you can stab a hand into a little jug in the underside of the start of the roof. Gain two good holds on the lip of this initial roof, clip, and pull through three bolts of sixty degree overhanging terrain. Pull the lip, ten feet of 5.9 climbing to the anchors, and you've claimed your first ascent!   Project's working name is Kodiak, for anyone that's curious. May be as hard as 5.14a... hard to tell, given it feels substantially harder than anything I've ever been on.

Climbs the right boltline up the low angle slab. One slab move off the ground leads to a super chill 5.4 romp.

Pitch 1: Climb the boltline under and on the right side of the small tower on the left side of the slab. Make a thin move off the highest point of the tower (crux) and then follow the seams straight up to an anchor. 5.9.   Pitch 2: Follow the line straight up through mellow slab climbing with good varnish holds to a thin crux right below a large sloping ledge. Take the easier terrain to the anchor. 5.8

Pitch 1: Start as for Hippie Vest. From the little tower, follow the diagonal seam and the corresponding boltline up and right to an anchor below a left facing corner. 5.10a.   Pitch 2: Climb the corner to a thin crux just below a large sloping ledge. Run it out up the easy wide crack (5.3) to an anchor. 5.9+.

An isolated, 200-foot wall on the back way to Turtlehead Peak, hiding in plain sight from the Kraft parking lot. The climbing is incredibly varied: steep varnish crimping, overhanging jugfests, technical slabs, even a couple crack pitches. These are all brand new routes, so care should be taken for now; the wall is still shedding a fair amount of rock. Helmets are probably a good idea. Gets afternoon shade, more of it in the winter.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Fringe