The crack/groove on the far right of the Main Slab. The lower part of the crack crack leads to two 3/8" s.s. bolts and the upper crack (gear) and a tree ledge. Rap with 2 ropes.   The F.A. was 1973...The 5.6 rating is pretty "Old School". My notes from 2007 say "This is a pretty serious climb!...(if you don't have the gear)" 

  There were no cams for the (mostly) slightly flaring crack in 1973 !  

Looks like the climb's been brushed recently (2015), Thanks Chris!

Weak Nuts

Washboard

The Hole Traverse

Cover Girl

Little Dab Will Do Ya

Found Arch

Hallie Haley

Rattle Can

Lost Arch

Girls Prefer Batteries

Groov'in

Carpet Slabber

Rhumb Line

Twirpie Girl

Erosion Groove

Four Holes

Numb Nuts

Vector

Gawking At the Broad Squad

Nutt’n But Clean Laundry

START: About 20 ft left of the crack/groove of Weak Nuts a bolt may be seen about 20 feet up, with a 2nd bolt about 6-8 ft higher,  if not hidden by the branches and leaves of a tree.  

  Climb up to, and past the 1st bolt to the 2nd about 6-8 ft higher up, then on to the flake (gear) and then straight up intercepting Weak Nuts.

START: Either at the very toe of the slab, or the Alternate Start (WAY easier to get to, and with cleaner rock) on the far left end of the sloping dirt ledge about 20 ft left the large Oak Tree of Groov'in. This start is 20-30 ft RIGHT of the usual start, and is above and to the left of the "toe" of the slab. If you're leading, be aware there is 20-30 ft of slab below you at the first move.Looking up from the Alternate Start there is a flake up on the left, and a 4-5inch overlap to the flake's right.  Climb up to the flake,(gear possible)  step over it and then up the dark lichen/moss past  TWO new, 3/8" SS bolts to the Groov'in 2-bolts-with-chains anchor. There are a couple of gear placements possible in addition to the two bolts: small cams.According to Handren's guide this climb was first done on gear only, then bolts added by mistake.I have retained the 5.6 rating, but my guess is this rating was given to the climb because as a "gear only" climb it would have been pretty 'concerning' for most 5.5 (and even 5.6) leaders, but with the bolts I'd give it a 5.4 - 5.5. Using the alternate start, no move is as hard as the crux of Groov'in.

This route climbs up the clean rock just to the left of a 3-4ft wide streak of dark lichen & moss. The bolts, especially the first, are difficult to see. Bolts are 5/16-inch stainless steel.To me, Pitch 2 seems a bit contrived, but Pitch 1 is some of the nicest friction on the slab and a great alternative start to4-Holes.1) Start below, and a few feet left of, the small arching flake (gear possible). Friction directly up the slab, passing a 5/16-inch SS bolt about 30-35 ft up. A second bolt is reached about 10 feet below the flake of "4-Holes". Belay at the double bolt anchor. (Cord for rapping is getting a bit "manky" Oct 2020) 2) The FA party belayed here and then stepped right several feet and up then back left and up on a line of holes of dike-like appearance and then finished on "4-Holes".

Originally climbed without any bolts (5.4 -5.5 X) the 5/16-inch SS bolts were accidentally added by a later party which was unaware of the FA.According to Webster, this was the first route in the White Mtns where the first ascent party was all female.The first 10-15 ft of this climb is now horribly moss-and-lichen coated, so either have a big, strong wire brush or START on the first few moves of "Girls Prefer Batteries" and then step left to the flake.START- Up the mossy slab past the curving, incipient flake (or, better, start on "Girls Prefer Batteries" and move right as soon as possible.)Climbing right of the seam and bolt of Girls', climb to the large flake and protect. Now climb to the huge pothole [5/16 bolt], move left (crossing "Girls") and up to clean, brown, rock. Climb up passing 3 more 5/16-inch bolts to an anchor. The bolts are to the right, often an inch or two "into" the mossy rock.Rap with 2 ropes, or with one rope swing to rappeller's right to one of the lower anchors.

Climb 5.5 climbing up to the headwall then 5.10 over the headwall in a corner, past one hangerless bolt and a 2nd bolt with hanger.  

[April 2016 Admin. Note: as of 24APR16 the first bolt, which would protect a difficult move, remains without a hanger. (Anybody know why???..was it added after the FA???) Protection rating is thus "R/X". Bring a hanger, nut and wrench and the safety increases, although you'll still hit the flat, "ledge" a few feet below the crux. .  

  The climb can be TR'd from the Erosion Groove anchor, which is 15-20 ft above the crux move(s). R. Hall ]

The crux is in between the first and second bolt.Cliping the first bolt is a strech.Start out by climbing up past a small overlap(very small) then past three bolts and then step left up past two more to the left of some bushes to the anchors.

The crux is the start. Solid climbing up to, and past the bolt.If one starts on Weak Nuts and steps right to Hallie's the grade is more consistent with the rating. Not sure which way Joe went.I believe the climb is named for Joe Coty's granddaughter. Joe F.A.'d numerous NH high-quality climbs in the 1970's and 80's.

A steep start to a left trending groove/flake which provides a good clipping stance. Move past the first bolt (crux) on thin smears and edges to another reasonable stance. Make some tricky moves past the second bolt and continue on up the slab on increasingly easier terrain past two more bolts to double bolt anchor. 60 ft Bolts are a dark brown color, don't miss 'em !

Start about 10 ft right of Groov-in, between Found Arch and the dark rock of Vector.  Climb past TWO 3/8" bolts and continue up past 2 more to a 2-bolt anchor with chains. 

   Per Bob A's COMMENT in Rhumb Line: "Lost Arch has a low stainless bolt just above a small overlap. The second bolt is quite a ways up through the crux.The third is just behind a small tree growing out of a big pocket then a fourth straight up to a two bolt anchor to the right of a rotten flake."

Up to the first bolt is the crux,climbing on smooth slab up to a large pot hole(several feet deep)then straight up to a two bolt anchor. The top pitch is very dirty.

START: There is a very large Oak Tree growing only about 3-4 ft from the cliff; a left-slanting dike/groove leads from its base to a new 3/8" SS bolt about 15 ft up.Climb the dike/groove (wire brush may be called for here, that oak sap provides plenty of nutrients for the lichen!) Then step left ( a move that can vary from straightforward 5.3-5.4 to quite off-balance 5.5-5.6 depending on the sequence). Move up left to the first bolt. Now, follow the clean, well-pocketed, face past 3 more bolts to the dbl bolt anchor with chains.

A fun little route that is the perfect choice for a beginning leader. Simply climb the route to the anchor, passing old bolts. [see 2016 NOTE, bolts replaced]  Originally listed as a "sport" climb, probably because the only protection is the bolts, I re-assigned it as a trad climb lest one make the effort of the approach to find the run out a bit too "sporty". R Hall NH Admin. 

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =[2016 NOTE: Somewhere along the line this climb got "cut in half", probably because the "natural, straight up" line above the "pitch 1" anchor is about 5.5 -5.6 R and totally out of context with "pitch 1." But the "second pitch" (or, almost certainly, the second half of a one-pitch FA) goes up a dike to the right of the "straight up line" above the anchor.Webster's Editions 2 and 3 state this climb "climbs the right side of the slab past several bolts 5.3". Here is what I am nearly certain is a modern version of the correct route description:P1 - Start at an obvious tree-root and dirt ledge at the right side of the slab. Climb the slab and belay at a bolted anchor off to the left. 85-90 ft 5.2P2 - From the belay, move up and right about 20-30 ft to where a dike starts and rises back left. Make a move up and left gaining the dike. ("crux", the 1973 "Joe Cote" bolt in the dike was left in for historical purposes; you may prefer clipping the modern 3/8" SS bolt to it's left.) Continue up the dike passing one more bolt ( 3/8" SS just above the old 1973 bolt) on the right.  120 ft 5.4  to a double bolt anchor below the sandy/gravelly top. ("old school" 5.2-5.3)If you were to clip the first 1973 bolt coming from the bolted P1 belay anchor you will know why this climb was nearly certainly first climbed as a one-pitch climb without the P1 anchor. [ Think about the rope placement and how the leader would fall if the rope ran from the P1 belay to the 1973 bolt....the rope would "flip" a falling leader. Thus, I'm nearly positive the FA "went" as one long pitch from the ground. ]DESCENT: Rap or lower with one rope from the dbl bolt anchor, then a 2nd rap to the ground.P2 Variation: Climb directly up the "headwall" from the P1 anchor. 110 ft 5.4 - 5.5? -  R 

A delicate slab climb that requires careful footwork. Start by carefully moving up to the first bolt (25 - 30 feet off the ground and about 12 ft left of the lower Numb Nuts bolt). Delicate smearing leads past this to easier ground. Continue straight up to the tree anchor on Weak Nuts. Rappel with two ropes.

START- On the left edge of the slab, about 50 ft above the "toe", by a 5-inch diameter (2016) maple tree*.[ * The easiest way to reach this spot may be as we did it: From the Groov'in anchor, climb left 20-25 ft (5.4 +/-?) to the Erosion Groove anchor and rap down to the START.]Climb 5.2 slab 30-40 ft to a headwall with one, lonely bolt. [This bolt is about 20-25 ft left of the corner of "Little Dab Will Do Ya" and its bolts.]"Climb the headwall left of the bolt...5.9" [per Handran's guidebook] or...Alternate - climb about 8-10 ft right of the bolt on (brushed, 2016) footholds and a thin flake at the top. About 5.8+ to 5.9Above the little head wall,  move up and right a few feet to the Erosion Groove double bolt anchor.

APPROACH - Three approaches: 1) [ Best ] Take the sloping ledge that starts at the huge oak tree at the base of Groov’n  ( same ledge as alternate start to Washboard).  At its very end step down and move 5-6 feet left to reach the incipient crack about 20 feet above the “ toe”.  Avoids the first 20 ft of seldom-climbed and dirty slab. 2) From the base area (base of Groov'n and the "Arches") Slither, crash and bushwhack down and around the toe to the base of the climb as the FA-ers did! ( and your submitter the first time he climbed it !) 3)  Climb "Groov'n (or any other climb that leads to the Groov'n anchors) and then traverse to the Erosion Groove anchors [see photo posted to Twirpy Girl]. Rap to the base.START: At the bottom of toe of the slab, about 25 ft left, and 25 ft below the large Oak Tree of Groov'in. Bring a wire brush for the first 20-25 feet, or use the alternate start on the sloping ledge. Climb up the thin seam (very little protection in the first section; what there is will be nuts not cams) until it becomes a crack/groove. About 150 ft up the crack/groove ends at an inside corner. (Before getting here one can do a rising traverse to the Groov'n/Washboard anchor; to this point the climb is about 5.5 +/-)  Climb over the corner (5.6 -5.7 PG/R) to a clump of trees. Do a 2 rope rap or...Pitch 2 - Continue to trees above. (Easy)

After climbing the "holes", friction up to a very thin seam (Bolt 30 ft off ground) then climb up low angle slab headed diagonally right to a dbl bolt anchor on top of a flake.  The Crux is on the second pitch where the white slab steepens. You can run the two pitches together with one 60 meter rope.

With all three bolts replaced, this might see more traffic. A good brushing would be welcome, but it "goes" OK now (2017).  The 5.8 seems quite "old school". Its crux is quite a bit thinner than its neighbors.

 START: Look for dark brown/licheny streak of rock about 20ft right of Groov'n. [As of Aug 2015 bolt # 1 has been replaced with a 3/8" s.s., this bolt looks like a slightly "off-line" bolt on Lost Arch. The new bolt is approx 12 inches left of the old 1/4 inch bolt (whose cut-off stud is still there), possibly to allow someone leading Lost Arch to clip it. (??) ]  

   Vector has 3 bolts, but I suspect most people leading it might clip the first bolt of Lost Arch.    

   Climb up to the first new bolt (2nd bolt if you clip Lost Arch's #1), pass it slightly on the right,making crux moves nearly directly over the old 1/4 inch bolt's chopped "stud". (some might say 5.9+) and continue up to a 2nd bolt (3/8-inch stainless replaced the older 1/4" bolt.)  Continue to a huge "scoop" and the 3rd bolt (also replaced in late 2017). Step right and up on brushed footholds, moving left to the Lost Arch double bolt anchor & chains.

Same start as for Four Holes. At the bolt 30 ft up stay left (actually more "straight up") instead of going right on 4-Holes. Continue over the steeper "headwall" to an anchor.   Pitch two climbs a very dirty slab to trees (5.2).

START at the end of the sloping dirt ledge that extends left from the large tree at the base of Groov’en. (Same as alternate start for Washboard) Make the step onto the slab, then climb up to the flake. ( gear here, #0.4 or 0.5 Camalot) Step over left, then on a rising diagonal left to the first bolt. Continue pretty much straight up the clean face, keeping 5-10 ft left of the lichen on Washboard. Two more bolts to the anchor on Groov‘n. 100 ft 5.5 - 5.6 (maybe a bit harder than Groov'n ) 

A pleasant sunny slab that is perfect for the beginning leader or for a more proficient climber who just wants to spend a relaxing day in the woods. The climbs at at Lost Ledge are almost all slabs and the cliff is never crowded. While it is about 20-25 min. and 400 vertical feet up into the woods; it is very easy to find with the proper directions.All of the old 1/4" bolts have now (2016-19) been replaced with 3/8" bolts.

Description

Protection

Routes in Lost Ledge