Drum Major

Trigger Finger

Wormdrive

Monozygotic

Dizygotic

Gordita

Jump the Shark

The Holy Grail

WTFWJD

Toad Licker

Futuristic

Juliet

Castor

Pollux

Anklebiter

Skintight

Gong Show

Mercutio

Romeo

Chemo

Delicate start leads to thin hands to fingers over a small roof next to the big flake.

Really fun fingers to a cool hard sequence.  

Dive into the slot, squirm to the roof, exit right, tomahawk for the sky.

Left (wide) crack of the two main cracks that share this face. Shares anchor with crack to right.

This one is twice twins. Climb twin cracks (hands on left) to steep fingers. Shares anchor with crack on left.

Despite a softish and dirty start, this is a pretty fun route. For most folks the crux will likely be the six in section before the roof. However, it is not very off width in character and those with a flexibility and stemming skills will shoot right up the stem box at the bottom.

The top half of this route is amazing, but the bottom is both easy and only ok. There are two main cracks about the fifteen feet right of Anklebiter. The left of the cracks is offwidth and heads up towards the obvious finger crack on the upper face. It's got quite a bit of dirt in it and is not the recommended start, even though it's direct. The right crack heads straight up to the big chimney. It's clean and about 5.7 and is the best way to get to the finger crack. It terminates on a pillar just below the chimney. Climb the 5.7, slinging any pieces long so that the rope runs outside of the crack. From the top of the pillar, reach left and place an 0.5 Alien in the finger crack on the face--a #5 will protect this move.  Step left into the pod at the start of the fingers and then pull! 

  The fingers to the thin hands above is well worth the shenanigans required to get to the finger crack above. It protects well and is super fun locker fingers with very minimal feet.

Are you Galahad enough? Fingers to thin hands to a ten foot roof. Unmistakeable.

Huge, clean looking corner with a rather weird hand crack in the middle. A little painful but different, interesting, and fun. Can be started directly via a slightly scary huge flake or a two move finger crack. Alternately, climb the blocks to the right of the crack and start from a ledge.

Fists to fingers to same anchor as Mercutio. The first ten feet is a bit gritty but the rock is OK.  

Striking line that starts out fingers to an arching thin hands crack.

Everyones favorite Capulet. LB (or thin hands for a 13 year old girl) up a shallow corner to a small roof. Nice stance 15 feet up on the arete.

Fingers to a roof, step right clip anchor under roof.  Shares anchor with Pollux.

Hands to fingers to thin hands under a roof. Shares anchor with Castor.  

An obvious overhanging off width that just begs for your blood.

Fingers to overhanging thin hands up twin cracks.  

Thin hands to fat fingers to right trending traverse. Full value! Would be 4 (and 5.12) stars if it was longer.

Awkward and a little dirty. Thin hands to akes to a ledge, wide hands to the anchor.

Chemo was the 7ft albino heavy from the novel Skintight. Thin hands.

The Capulet side canyon sees a little more shade than the main canyon. None of the routes in the side canyon are more than 100 feet.

 The side canyon routes don't see nearly as much traffic as the upper and main wall routes. Expect loose rock and some dirt.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Capulet Side Canyon