From the sizable ledge, climb the rightmost bolt line (easily identified as the bolt line heading right from the two bottom belay bolts) up the white face. A short section of good holds leads to a sequential, sustained headwall of crimps. Finesse the crux near the top, and then motor on easy ground to the anchor.

Spinal Tap

City of the Dead

Reincarnation

Ernest Stemmingway

Ugoogoly

Back From the Dead

High Priest

Dia de Los Muertos

Tomb Raider

The Reaper

Grave Digger

Till Death Do Us Part

Exhumation

The Undertaker

Bubble Gum

Bone Daddy

The Walking Dead

Six Feet Under

Hellbender

Cruisin' Caskets

Low Priest

Afterlife

Climb up easy ground for a few bolts to a smack down crux presenting itself halfway up the wall. Pull on bad sloping crimps, and get established on an undercling that seems to be angling the wrong way. Get a few better holds, and save up for a few more challenging moves off sloping crimps and non-existent holds to great holds below the roof. A jug haul victory romp leads to the chains.

This route is one of the longer routes at the crag with the crux at the top. Begin up the route on some technical face which then turns into two sections of thoughtful slab. Take a rest before the final hand crack roof. Crank through the roof, and fire up some hidden jugs to the anchor.

Begin up some jugs (some questionable rock) to a section of sustained, enjoyable climbing. Reach a ledge, and continue with another thought provoking sequence before the anchor.

Begin up the blocky face to a small ledge. From the ledge is a tricky slab/face section which leads to somewhat easier climbing. Then decode the final "stem" sequence to the anchor.

The crux is either the slab/face or the final stem.

I thought this was the most interesting and fun route in the cluster of 5.10 routes (most a little soft for the grade) left-center at Graveyard.

A few wonky lieback, stem, and face moves in a right-facing corner lead to a classic lieback section.

Rest up at the ledge just after halfway before tackling the gym-like headwall.

I thought the crux was at the top of the headwall near the last clip. Slightly runout but easy scrambling leads to the anchors (quicklinks and chains).

This route starts similarly to

The Walking Dead

but traverses right up the face on small/slopey holds. Figure out your beta to make the tough traverse to gain a decent hold, then finish up and left on easier climbing to the anchors shared with

The Walking Dead

.

High Priest is the left of the two obvious lines on the giant roof. This line is technically an extension of “Low Priest”, which ends below the large headwall.

Begin with excellent technical climbing up a left-angling seam. From a nice rest beneath the roof, fire up through an undercling into a sustained series of small edges. This has great movement all around!

Climb over a couple of bulges to reach the roof and the start of a small, right-facing corner. Make a couple of fun moves getting established and moving out to a jug below the lip. Find the holds over the lip (even if you can't see them!). Pull up, and clip the anchors.

This route is still evolving, with several loose holds.

I enjoyed the movement in the corner and hope it all stays together, but be careful till it cleans up.

Begin up a chossy gully with some bushes to the first bolt. The crux comes quickly as you climb through the second bolt at a bulge. Once you've reached the ledge, climb up a dirty dihedral to the anchor. This route needs some traffic or a good brushing to improve.

Climb up easy ground for a long ways to the first bolt (you can also clip the first bolt of the adjacent route). Get a nice stance, and pull the devious & reachy slab boulder problem to good holds above. Climb easy ground up to the roof, rest well, and launch into the sustained, sloping crimp section above. Traverse left once the crimps run out, finishing on slightly easier climbing to the chains.

This climb goes up a crack systems right of

Ugoogoly

in a right-facing dihedral. You can start low on easy terrain or on a ledge higher up by

The Walking Dead

and

Back from the Dead

. The higher ledge start seems better. The crux seems to be at the top of the dihedral before you move left onto a big ledge below a crack which is the rest of the route. There is some loose crumbly rock on the route, but the protection is good, and the upper crack is fun.

Ascend a long edge toward the western end of the area. There are positive crimps above to claw you out of the grave.

This route surprisingly climbs better than it initially looks. Begin the climb 30 feet right of

Spinal Tap

.

Please keep in mind a 70m rope will

NOT

reach the ground from the upper anchor. Taller folks might find this route a bit easier, 5.9-5.9+. Also note, there may still be some loose rock/dirt (I did however spend quite a few hours cleaning the route).

Pitch 1 – 5. 8 –

Climb up a large boulder, and clip the somewhat high first bolt (easy 5th). Climb on moderate terrain to a small roof which leads to an excellent belay ledge,

11 bolts + a 2 bolt anchor, ~85 feet.

Pitch 2 – 5.10a –

From the ledge, ascend a short overhang (crux) which leads to another, easier overhang. The second pitch anchor is located on another decent ledge,

6 bolts + a 2 bolt anchor, ~45 feet.

Rappel the route.

The bulb right off the bat is how the route was named. It has great texture and clean rock. There are obvious holds straight up until the very end and good foot holds directly beneath.

Bone Daddy offers fun climbing on the gently overhanging face about 10 feet right of

Spinal Tap

. It can be tricky to figure out. If it feels hard, then you might be missing something.

The rock around the first bolt is still cleaning up, so be mindful.

A difficult start leads to some sustained technical climbing up the seam. One more hard sequence toward the top gets you to the anchors. This gets 12c in the most recent CCC guidebook by Kevin Capps.

Well, I mean, it's still climbing, right?

Easier face climbing leads to a two-move crux bulge. The bulge is a little tricky with a few different ways to do it. Surmount the bulge, and continue up easier climbing to a two bolt anchor.

This should clean up into a fun warm-up. Start a ways left of where the trail meets the wall. Follow 7 bolts up a short face to a ledge then over a couple of bulges through a weakness to an anchor with Climb Tech hooks.

Low Priest was bolted (and the anchor added) really just as entry pitch to Matt’s new 5.12 roof crack,

High Priest

. With that being said, it is an independent line with an anchor, so I thought I’d post it here for easy identification.

*Please tread with care/test your holds until this line has cleaned up a bit!*

Traverse into the first bolt from the left via a sloping rail until perhaps the bottom cleans up. Clip 7 bolts total on the way to the chains. Belly to the bolt line provides interesting climbing, though it’s possible to weave around a bit if those moves aren’t to your liking. The climbing is fun, though a cautious leader may find a bit of runout between some of the higher bolts.

Thanks, Matt, for giving us a new easier pitch at the Graveyard and for letting me be the first to give this a go!

Start up some jugs to clip the first bolt. Climb carefully to the very high second bolt; don't blow it or you'll deck from 20 feet up! Face climbing leads to a ledge, and once above the ledge, enjoyable, technical climbing guides you to the anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Graveyard