This route might not be the very best part of Highwire but climbs the best, awesome, clean hand and finger cracks of Shafted and replaces the lesser parts of Shafted with fun face climbing that follows positive edges and jugs throughout. Start with the clean hand crack of Shafted then just after Shafted gets wide, at about the 5th or 6th bolt, move out left to a bolt and then join Highwire. Continue up the great face of Highwire. Then at the mini roof, just below the crux of Highwire, clip a bolt out right and make a tricky 11a move right to a stance in the corner of Shafted. Follow the10c fingers corner of Shafted  to the anchor.

Best to have an 80m rope for this route although one could get by with a shorter rope using the mid anchor of Shafted.

Best of Both Worlds

Creatures of Habit

Out of the Pit

Claim Jumper

Highwire

Here Kitty Kitty Kitty

Shafted

The Dominator

Circo Gringo

Pennywise

Midnight Oil

Candy Colored Clown

Blue Shards

Start with the gently overhanging thin crack.  Where the initial crack starts deteriorating in quality move right onto the face and head for the left leaning seam/crack that splits the upper pillar.

Trapeze variation:  Start with the Shafted hand crack but move left at that route's 6th bolt, joining Highwire for most of it's face and the upper seam. The hand crack replaces the gently overhanging direct thin crack start.  Also 14 bolts long.

A seam leads to bulging right-leaning double cracks, finish up a technical face.

This route is located in the gap behind the two house sized boulders.  It starts by stemming off of the righthand boulder to get past a section of atrocious rock.  When the rock improves, gain the wall and make moves leftwards and then up.  Unfortunately the rock quality decreases again towards the top.

Unique start coming right out of the mine shaft entrance.  Just over halfway up move right into the curving/narrowing smaller dihedral.

If you like big sport lines and consider yourself a jack of all trades then you'll love this circus act.  Slap up the pretty arete then flow through easy jugs to a break.  From here the kitten grows into a lion and becomes a steep bouldery affair to a hand crack roof.  Relax after all that and regain composure through some flowy jugs.  Tackle the boulder problem onto the headwall and tick tack your way through crimps, pockets, sidepulls and slopers at 50 meters out.  I used crack gloves to keep my hands pretty and an 80 meter rope to lower to the midway anchors.

Start with the striking right leaning hand crack.  From the halfway belay climb past a few bolts in somewhat fractured rock to gain the finger crack in the upper left facing dihedral.  The lower crack and the upper dihedral are good rock, a section in the middle (including the start of the upper dihedral) may always be a bit chossy.

If done in one pitch be careful lowering back to the ground with less than an 80m rope.

Stopping at the intermediate belay makes for a good clean 10a one pitch route.

Face climb through pinkish colored rock at the start.  Crux in the vicinity of the second bolt.  Easier climbing for the remainder of the pitch.

A quality route that is far from your typical gorge "edge hauling".  The climb starts at a large boulder, moving up and right to the vertical seam.  An interesting fingerlock move leads to some long moves between jugs and up to a bulge with crimps.

Starts behind a large boulder at the base of a vertical seam.  Balancey 5.11 climbing leads up the seam to a large jug rest.  Move up and right to a decomposing jug and then leftwards into a difficult boulder problem. A few long moves on edges lead to the anchor.  Great movement, but the rock is less than stellar.

Another climb that starts with the pink varnish on the Barnum Wall.  The crux is in the vicinity of the 4 th bolt.  Reachy crux, difficulty may vary depending on the climbers height.

Very slightly overhanging for the first 5 or so bolts, then a few spaced bolts on easier climbing.  As it steepens again at the end the rock starts to deteriate a bit but it remains easy enough that it doesn't really detract from the route.

This route ascends the clean, vertical face just past the mega boulders.  Originally graded 12c, this route received an upgrade in the 10th edition.  The route starts with long moves over a bulge and some difficult moves past a smaller bulge leading to a ledge to the left.  From here head into a difficult boulder problem using the solitary pocket and some sidepulls.  Strange moves out left and up lead to a jug and easier moves to the anchor.  A quality hard route on good rock.

A little deceptive.  Decent climbing past the first 3 bolts.  Unfortunately the upper slab has a problem with bat droppings due to the cracks/flakes directly above the route's anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in P.T. Barnum Wall