OK after 10 years I finally got around to doing a direct start to this route.  No more dealing with the thorn tree of death in the gully for the throw away first pitch. It can now at long last be done as one pitch.   Sustained and tricky climbing past three bolts get you to the ledge.    If you climb up to the first bolt what was the second pitch then down climb and unclip from the anchor rope drag is no issue.

Eating Crow direct

Too Far Gone

Home on the Range

Crooked Sky

Medicine Bag

Jug Hunter

Calf Rustler

Crossed Up

The Big Pow Wow

Oregon Trail

Before Limitations

Primal Sledge

You Call It

The Relic

Lost Feather

Duh Bulge

No Excuses

Four Crows

Dry County

The White Eyes Arrive

Black Feather

The Quick One

Fear of Intimacy

Hole Shot

Kaboom

One Green Spot

If We Bolt It They Won't Come

Parallel Ventures

Techno Savage

Follow bolts traversing up and left to two bolt belay, then go strait up for a long 2nd pitch.  The 2nd pitch is the reason to to this climb, it is long and has some fun .10 climbing

Super chossy route with good exposure and a great view.

Fun climbing. There are a couple of sections of rock that look loose or crumbly from the ground, but either the FA or subsequent climbers have done a good job of cleaning the vast majority of it off. 

  The bolting (and lack thereof where appropriate) on this route is superb. 

  The climbing is surprisingly good, especially given the appearance of the darker sections of rock from the ground. The texture of the lighter rock in particular is great and provides just enough holds to make for a great route, while the trad parts take solid gear. There's even a bomber handjam down low.

Follow the bolts over some nice varied climbing across a small slab, then directly upward through a small roof.  For the sport version, go strait up following the bolts to a two bolt belay atop the cliff and walk off the top.  For much more fun and exposed climbing move left after the small roof following a thin crack to a two bold hanging belay (these bolts add to the experience as they are old and you are hanging over 150 feet of dead vertical face!) These are bolts, not chains or rap hangers so if you want to rap off them you will have to leave gear.  It is better to to the worlds shortest 2nd pitch and send your second up the easy terrain to the two bolt belay up and left about 10 feet.  Three stars if you follow the crack

Exit cave on left side, straight up fun face to chains.

This route is another finish to a route Jim, Dean Brault and I put up in 2001.  The name escapes me right now but it is two pitches with ring anchors below the roof.  After doing some great climbing on the old route he new finish moves right just before the other routes anchors and turns the roof 7 feet or so to the right of where the original route turns the route.  Turning the roof and hanging on long enough to get to the anchors is hard after the two low cruxes.  The climbing is not obvious above the roof but the falls are clean and the route is worth doing.

Climb low angle choss to a dirty roof.  After pulling the roof trek right to a corner.  Finally head left across featured lower angle rock to finish. 

  Pulling the small roof, while likely the crux, is a blast upon discovering the correct hold.

Fairly easy face climbing up to the roof where the harder climbing starts.  Pull the well protected roof and up 4 or 5 more bolts to anchors.

First route that requires either a 70m rope, double rope rap or a walk off. Shares first bolt with lost feather then works right into slabby section, crimps then big flake, small bulge then some nice jugs. Great variety of climbing, very sustained and decently long.

Ascend a low angle ramp, clipping three or four bolts, before beginning a long, vertical ascent.  Engage the crux and scamper right to a corner ledge for a rest.  Alternate between vertical face edges and rounded lower angle sloppers.  One of the longest and most sustained routes at the Ruins.

A fun, overhanging jug haul. If you're not hanging on a bucket, you missed something. Very well bolted.  The only concern I had on this route was that some of the rock is reinforced with glue.  And I don't mean small holds, I mean big chunks of rock.  I guess it has held for 10 years now.  Seemed pretty solid to me, but make sure your belayer wears a helmet.  How solid is rock glue?

Crux is near the end, on an awkward move off a tiny crimp.  Some strenuous but not crazy moves on the way up.  Fun route.

This route is easily identifiable as it is just left of the large orange stain on the wall.  The start is protected by 1 bolt then takes small-to-medium-size gear, passing 1 more bolt at a small dihedral. Easy climbing from there will gain the anchors.

Slightly wandering route, with a crux near the top, pulling a small bulge.

Follow bolts over obvious bulge, then easier crack to chains. Very fun route in a great setting. Note: while this route is well-bolted down low, it is NOT a sport climb. There is an easier crack at the top that takes a bit of small gear.

Fairly sustained steep face climbing.   Another fun moderate.

Crux is a thought-provoking move in the middle that results in a long pause and much feeling around on the rock.

Short but fun. Strong moves to good holds past the bottom 3 bolts leads to a rest, and to the surmounting of a small bulge. Figuring it out is the fun part, so no beta for you.

Exit cave on right side, then follow bolts up fun face to chains.

Some fun face moves.  Shares anchors with If We Bolt It...

Fun first half leads to a good rest in gully. Then over and up to the steep arete with some long tricky moves and pumpy clips.    If you can't get the last bolt clipped the fall is totally safe.  Trust me I know. 

  This one is much easier with the draws already hung.

This short one star "classic" (joke) has some tough moves but it all ends too soon.  There is a cool pocket on this climb.

Extremely chossy bottom corner leads to face climbing above. Not recommended.  

  "Kaboom" makes the choss as it nearly kills your belayer ..."Kaboom" rating too..

Follow bolts up orange stain on left side of ruins past the 'one green spot' to chains.

Good warm up, pretty fun moves and protects well.  Crux is around the middle, but there are not any real hard moves.  Shares anchors with The Quick One for easy toproping.

Ascend a low angle ramp, clipping three or four bolts, before branching right onto a vertical, featured face complete with a sinker hole.  Round the corner to pull a final bulge before reaching the relatively low anchors. 

  While this route is listed as 10+ in Squeezing The Lemmon II I found it to be comparable in difficulty to the 10- routes.

Nice exposure on solid rock.  One of the better climbs on the Ruins.  A bolt protects the initial face up to a mellow crack system with great gear.  Continue up four bolts on the steeper face to the anchor.

I think this is a really fun route, very good positive edges and sustained.  The only drawback is it's short.  Another 40 feet of the same and it'd get three stars.  Well worth doing.

This south facing rock makes a nice outing during the winter and has some nice variety of both grade and type (trad and sport, 5.8-5.12).  Note that some of the routes need two ropes.  Some nice ones here include "One Green Spot" (5.9+ sport), "Parallel Ventures" (5.10b bolts/small gear), and "Crooked Sky" (5.10d face/gear).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Ruins