P1: Starts up the right facing corner/dihedral, to the ledge holding the large, cracked right-leaning block. Reach high or climb overhung hands and protect high up in the crack on the right side of the pilar (squeezes down from hands .3s)pull around the pilar on some crystals and slab out onto the face. A series of unprotected slab moves constitute a no fall zone. Be sure to protect for your second above the slab and step right around the flake into the chimney to reach the anchors.

P2: Climb the hand,fist squeeze chimney. Requires some groveling. Summit rolls off the flat build belay in wide crack systems. Rap anchors located up and right. Slung chicken-head and 1 bolt. Single rap to ground. 60 or 70.

Lightly Seasoned

Cuticle Crack

Thin finger crack moves through an airy roof requiring considerable body-tension, a committing mantle above small gear, and final 5.10 fingers to thin hands in a flared chimney makes this crack totally classic. Comparable to coffin crack, but obviously much more involved of an approach. Good rock (It has cleaned up nicely) with bomber gear. Sharp as always.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Thumb Nail