A flaring off-width crack to the right of Bust A Move. Scrambling 15 feet to a ledge at the bottom of Bust A Move to access the Boot Scoot crack. Begins with a true 4" off-width and continues with a continuous lie-back to a mantle where it joins back up to finish on the upper portion of Bust A Move. Tricky placements and really fun climbing. Can be toproped with a 4th class scramble from the south side to the ledge above. Rappel or walk-off to the south. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007. photo page 152, topos Ai & Aj pages 164-165.

Boot Scoot Boogie

5.10a toprope

Bust A Move

Electric Avenue

A vertical, flaring crack offering a variety of off-widths, lie-backs, fist jams, stemming, and mantles. Top anchors are located a large ledge by a tree (now probably a stump) which is accessible by way of a 4th class scramble from the south. Rappel or walk-off to the south. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007. photo page 152, topos Ai & Aj pages 164-165.

Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007. photo page 152, topos Ai & Aj pages 164-165. Top anchors mid way up the NE face can be accessed by climbing the first part of Electric Avenue or with a 60 foot rappel from the top anchors to Electric Ave. Due to its NE aspect route may require maintenance at the beginning of each season

Climbs the right leaning, slightly overhanging double crack on the NE side of One Hit Wonder Buttress.  Hand jams and big holds behind the blocks allow for abundant placements. This route requires some TLC at the beginning of each season due to its NE aspect. Can be toproped using the fourth class access from the south side of the buttress. Rappel or walk-off to the south. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007. photo page 152, topos Ai & Aj pages 164-165.

The rock formation is easily recognized by 2 prominent crack systems 10 feet apart that join 60 to 70 feet up. The area sits between Area 51 and One Time Chimney. With the new clearcut the simplest approach straight down the south side from the ridge above. There are four established routes that are described in Rock Climbing Western Oregon 2007 pp. 163-166.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in One Hit Wonder Buttress