Ascend the far left side of the cliff to a yellow-lichen area and through a shallow gulley.

A.  unnamed

M. ZRAC's Delight

D. Lupus

C. unnamed

F. Wolf Spider

N.  Sirius

E. Alternate Start to Lupus

O.  Room with a view

K. Latrans

H. Foxy

I.  Never Cry Wolf

B. unnamed

J. Vulpes

G. Familiarus

P. Alternate Finish for Room with a View

L. Rufus

Start at a tricky little overhang.  A key somewhat hidden pocket will help you overcome the overhang, then climb moderate terrain through some dirty sections to the handcrack in a deep niche at the top.

Follow the dirty, chossy, good clean fun moves on the left-facing corner of the Latrans slab to a stance below the delightful hanging off-width maw above.  Squirm and sweat and mutter profane statements then bury your dead.  Kilts optional but highly recommended, even in summer.

You have several options to start this excellent route.  1) The line of first ascent takes a direct line below the first bolt on a right-hand crimp and a left hand thumb gaston.  This leads up to side by side layback crimps and then straight up through tenuous moves up to ledge and first bolt (11b).  2) Var. 1: Start on Route C then traverse over to the first bolt (10a/b).  3) Var.2: Start on the Alternate Start to Lupus as described by its separate listing (as its significantly differnet and harder than these two starts).  In all three cases, it may be advisable to either stick clip the first bolt or bring a pad and good spotter. 

  Once at the first bolt, climb up and right to second bolt and over block to a stance below the face.  For full value, stick to the moves on the face and eliminate the flake on your right.  Climb to a point below the overhang where you get a nice jug for your left hand in the crack to clip from (bolt not visible until you get the hold and lean out).  Climb jugs and final crimps on face directly below and right of anchors.  DO NOT GET SUCKERED INTO THE MUNGY, ROTTEN CORNER AT YOUR LEFT--FINISH EITHER DIRECTLY THROUGH THE ANCHOR OR SLIGHTLY TO ITS RIGHT!

Start on the thinner, more challenging start right of route B (shares the same first bolt) that takes you to rails and pockets on the fun face above.  Climb to the chains which may be pulled back from the lip of the face.  If you can't do the start, simply start on route B and then trend right to the bolt line.

Originally climbed (except exit move over top) before extensive cleaning at start.  This is a work in progress as there's still LOTS of loose munge on the route.

This bouldery start presents thin edging and open-hand strength taking you to the jug, described for Lupus, at 15 feet.  Follow Lupus to the top.

This is the furthest route to the right on the main face; it starts on a delicate face with some obvious starting holds.  Then pick your way up the moves, taking care through the chossy section (should get better as it gets climbed more).  The crux comes at the top - a bulge and some very sequency crimps make it challenging.   Note - Shawn might want to change the rating - I'm just posting it to get it posted.

Originally 11b until a key hold broke.  Now much more technical and demanding, but even better!  Start on the right side of the slab (for full value avoid crack in corner) and dance your way towards the hanging niche above.  Boldly forge upwards via a shallow 2-finger pocket leading to a hidden "thank-God" bucket and on to another left of the camoflauged anchor.  Rappel hangers exist along this route to back off if its not your day.

The right hand finish of G/H on the grid/topo photo.  The FA artist envisioned topping it out directly above the last bolt (see comment below).  You can also climb up the gulley but it's dirty.

This route starts at the overhanging bulge to the left of the Latrans scoop.  Pull through fun moves on the overhang, then pick your way up the sustained but easier ground above, mostly staying on the dark grey rock rather than the gold rock (the route follows the line where the color changes).  At the top it gets a little steeper, and some stemming comes in handy.

Climb the blocky start to fun face climbing above to the chains (may be pulled back from lip and out of site from below).

Start on the slab as for the climb Latrans and move up and left, after the first bolt, to an obvious large hueco.  Continue moving up and slightly left to a stance below the headwall where you'll find sequency, strenuous moves leading to the v-notch above.

"G" on the grid/photo.  Left hand finish from the start of G/H.  Fun edges and some big moves near the big flake.  Nice overhang pull at the top.  No top anchors yet.  There is a rope with some biners used as a top anchor but it's old-- don't use it.  Rap off the top bolt, or top it out.

Start as per Room With a View, but instead of trending left to the scooped face, charge driectly up the face towards an obvious 1-foot overhang of discolored rock.  Finish as per Room With a View.  There are still still oose sections here and there on this and the Parent route, but more work is being doen to finish its cleaning and bolting process.  Stay tuned.

Start as for Latrans but veer right after second bolt and large sidepull to a rising traverse (potentially some dirty or loose stuff) to a stance below the ominuously overhanging and thin face above.  Excellent, technical and sequency moves lead to twin underclings and a sustained finish (hint: gun for a softball sized hold over and down from the chained anchor, but don't stop there....forge boldly to lip and a hidden clipping hold on slab beyond the lip for full value and an easier clip.     Camoflauged chains drop over the lip---don't clip around the chain, but through the links themselves if no fixed biners are present!  Otherwise, leave the biners there, please.  Rapell hangers exsit along this route to back off the route (do not get lowered through them please.

There are a handfull of bolted routes and a few more top-rope climbs located on this natural limestone outcropping.  Most of the routes are medium to high quality and range from 5.8 to 5.12.  The cliff is entirely on private land and located immediatley off the edge of the road.  Please be on your best behavior, wave and smile to the locals, remove all trash you may find, refrainfrom excessive chalk use (or scrub up after yourself) and stay off the road while belaying.   

  The crag is newly developed and is not entirely finished.  As such, expect some loose rock and some routes to be a bit dusty.  Some of the top-rope climbs will be bolted in the near future by the crag's developers.  

  On some routes, special hangers are fixed to the bolts that allow you to clip in and then thread a rapell if its just not your day.  Please resist the temptation to simply rethread and get lowered as this will wear out the hangers quickly and require them to be replaced.

Description

Protection

Routes in Canidae Cliff (Hammond)