A rather intense and sustained outing, which falls short of classic status because of less than perfect rock - face aficionados should not miss it however.

Start at the weakness left of the bolt ladder (same as variation to Jesus Wall Left). A mantle then slightly left to a vertical crack which leads to the horizontal crack (here the routes diverge). Now the fun begins; go up and slightly right to get established on the face above, thin stuff leads to a good hold for hands, then feet. Leave this hold and make a long and lonely break for holds which lead left to the Jesus Wall Left, follow this to a tenuous rest before the headwall, which proves to be the crux - steep bouldery face moves on grainy rock lead to the bottom of the finishing crack - and so to the top.

Central Route

Old Aid Bolt Ladder

Jesus Wall Left

Left Edge

Jesus Wall Right (aka Boche Death Route)

Roof Version:

Start just right of Main Chimney and go up to then pull over the roof to a good ledge. Now trend diagonally rightwards up the wall, with seldom an easy move to the grainy/pebbly top part of the wall, traverse left and finish up the right arete of Main Chimney.

RH Version:

Start up the first break to the right of the Roof version. A mantle then slightly left to a vertical crack which leads to the horizontal crack. Mantel onto it and toe traverse leftwards - intense moves lead away and up from this to a depression, now up and left to join the Roof version.

Update 3/2/08:  I ran across this today on:

bigwall.com/scag_lac.html#a…

JESUS WALL (5.6, C1)

This manky bolt ladder ascends the large blank face right of a huge chimney system splitting the front wall and is clearly visible from Topanga Canyon Blvd. Easy free climbing leads to the first hangerless bolt.

Pro: Gear for 17 bolts, several rivet hangers.

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For those of you looking for some exciting aiding on old bolts at Stoney, give the bolt ladder here a whirl.  The first bolt makes you think that it won't be too bad, but that's the nicest bolt on the route.  The highlight is the bent nail hook thingy that twists.  Overall it all felt pretty secure.  All placements are good for body weight, but I wouldn't want to take a whipper on any of them.

It's easy to scramble to the top and setup a top rope and use that as backup in case a bolt pulls so you don't zipper the line.  Most bolts at Stoney are suspect and these especially so.  Almost every hanger is a spinner and some want rivet hangers behind the rusted hanger to keep the pull close to the rock.

Start up and over the roof (crux) same as Jesus Wall Left, now go straight up the face just right of the edge, steep but with better holds (some loose) than the thin face routes to the right. Finish up the right arete of Main Chimney.

A great and intricate route.

Easy climbing up ledges leads to a horizontal crack/overlap, there's a way over on the right onto steep, exposed moves to a semi-rest. Trend right and up to gain the diagonal line pockets rising leftwards, follow these with much excitement to a tricky mantel onto the upper section of wall - steep cruxy stuff here leads upwards all the way to the top.

Note

Boche Death Route is an aid route that climbs the crack before transitioning onto the diagonal line of pockets, Jesus Wall Right free climbs (on TR) up the face and over the overlap to the left of the crack.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Jesus Wall