P1. Easy slab/ramp past a bolt to natural belay. 5.4 180ft

P2.Head up the short crack and long groove to a good ledge with bolt belay. 5.7 200ft.

P3.Easy slab to bolt. 5.0 200ft.

P4.4th class up the shoulder then follow ridge to the right for 150'. Carry on another 300' to the summit and register.

Descent: From the summit 4th class back to the bolt belay at top of P3. Then three raps to ground.

Fanny's Frolic

Slip Not

Ridge of Many Colors

Outrunning the Dog

Angle of Deception

Why Not

Goliath's Groove

This climbs the wide open slab right of Uneva Canyon.  From the parking walk up the road to the right and follow it to the mouth of the canyon.  Walk up the hill to the right in a small gully.  We started the climb just right of a pillar.  We climbed a easy 5.4 pitch and were at the belay when my dog showed up.  He had climbed up the lower angle slab to our right.  I unroped and I took him down his ascent route.  When I got back to the belay we decided to 4th class it from there, so we left all the gear and ropes and it turned out to be 4th/easy 5th class the rest of the way.  To descend we downclimbed the route.  This is actually a really nice slab with good rock.  A fun, quick climb of about 1000 feet with excellent views.

To reach the route, scramble up a few hundred feet until reaching the base of the pillar below the obvious seam.

Pitch 1- Climb up then slightly right to reach a single bolt anchor on a small stance.

Pitch 2- The crux pitch.  Climb up the seam directly above the belay to a gray ledge with a single bolt anchor.

Pitch 3- Continue up the center of the pillar to another single bolt anchor.

The rest of the route continues up on mostly easier ground to the top of the formation.  There are no more fixed anchors, and to descend we downclimbed the final four pitches back to the bolt at the top of pitch 3, and we rappelled off single bolt anchors to the ground.

P1 Climb up and left to left facing corner. Up this then move right to belay. 5.10- 100ft

P2 Step right and run out 30ft to crack, head up this passing a small headwall to belay. 5.7+ 100ft

P3 Move up left 20ft then back right following seam. Trend left to belay. 5.8 200ft

P4 Two ways to do it. Easy climbing 50ft to big ledge below steeper headwall. You can belay here with some small cams/bush and then/or keep moving up left passing seams/pods to a left facing corner with belay at top. There is about 30ft of simu climbing if you do not belay on ledge. 5.8 230ft

P5 Run out slab with a few pieces trending right to belay. 5.6 200ft

From here we left the gear and walked up to the summit. 400ft and register/cairn.

3 pitches up N. side of slot.

To descend- rappel to the top of pitch 2, then another 200 foot rappel leads to the base of pitch 1, rappelling past the ledge at the top of pitch 1.

Hike from Uneva Canyon trail head located 3.2 miles from I.70 to right turn ,then 1/4 mile to park. Follow the road up to the right ,at the top of the hill the "Why Not" slab is facing Its the smaller formation that lies to the right of the narrow slab of "Slip Not". About 15 mins from trail head. The actual technical climbing is short ,but the 4th class scramle brings one to a nice summit and views. .. Starts in the centre of the slab up the crack left of the small long roof.

P1).Exit left of the roof then straight up the slab above towards a steep section ,double anchors. 200'5.5.

P2). Straigh up from the anchors , after a couple of moves easier climbing brings one to a good ledge and large spike belay. 40' 5.8. From here 600'+ of 4th class open slabs leads to the summit.

A short Rap from the spike ,then 200' rap to ground. F.A. Paul Ross . Layne Potter. 2 July 2004

Takes a direct line up the very narrow slot canyon left of Slip Not. The canyon forms a groove rather than a slot. The rock is water worn and good quality. Enter the Canyon until a steep 35'wall/groove is reached.

P1)Up this and continue up the groove to the next steep section.100'5.8

P2)Difficult climbing up the groove passed 4 bolts to double anchors.140'5.11.

P3)Move out left onto the slab passed four bolts to easier climbing to natural belays. 200' 5.10

P4). Follow easy groove to natural belay below the last step section of the groove.200'

P5)Interesting moves past two bolts then up to natural belay. 60' 5.10.

Descent :- From the top belay scramble straight down the rounded ridge of Slip Not for about 150' (a bolt protects an awkward step)to rap anchors of Slip Not . Rap down first down about 50' of easy slab then down into the canyon on the right to another rap anchor on the climb Angle of Deception,then one more rap that brings one to below the short 5.8 first pitch of both routes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in H Crags