On the left side of the face climb past 3 widely spaced bolts (additional pro available) to a hanging belay (5.8+ s). The second pitch climbs the thin, varnished face past 5 bolts (5.11) to another bolted belay/rap anchor on the low angle slab at the top.

Shake, Rattle And Roll

High Tops (Cheops)

The Snakeye Pillar

Wrap That  Rascal

Split Tail

Stink Steak

Unknown

Six Finger Fist

Stink Finger

The White Dihedral

Warm Shoulder

100 yards left of the main Pyramid crag is a west facing wall with a thin crack that doesn't reach the ground (rap anchor here) and a wide splitter a ways right.  This is the route.  It starts with some hand jams, gets wider and goes through a small roof 40' up, and eventually narrows up high.  The crux involves hand-fist stacks and knee locks on nice patina.

High Tops ascends the clean dihedral to the crux undercling on the main face of the Pyramid. Undercling left to where you can cross the roof (balancy) to slightly incipient cracks on the face above. Make easier moves up and right to a good crack. A ways up the good crack face holds lead out left (unprotected) to a hanging belay (Todd Swain 5.11 face route) and rappel station. The FA apparently continued up the crack to the top.

The right edge of "The Snakeye Pillar" has this fun and continuous 5.7 -8 route. Clip 4 widely spaced bolts up to the 3 bolt anchor.

Wrap That Rascal is a fun and technical route. You can start in an easy crack on the left side of the lower tier or a short sharp and steep splitter hand crack to the right (5.10a). This leads to a ledgy section in the middle. Scramble up to the base of the final thin crack. The final 30 feet is continuous and technical 5.10b on great brown varnish.

Up on the Hillside north of Love Comes in Spurts Boulder, is Splittail, a 2 pitch route.  Pitch one goes up a steep slab past 3 bolts  (5.8) to a 2 bolt anchor on a ledge.  Pitch two goes up a slab past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt rap station.  The boulder moves off the ledge at the start of pitch two is the crux. This climb is really not on the Pyramid, but a ways to the right, before the Pyramid.

This flawed route is the rounded arete to the right of "The White Dihedral" which is just right of "High Tops". In it's original form one climbed the arete to a BS convenience anchor about 10 meters below the top of the formation and lowered off. The anchor consisted of a 3/8" bolt and a piton in the crack above. The runner connecting the bolt to the pin was an unnecesary eyesore. Above this anchor the arete continued to the top and would have been the way to finish this bland route with one or two more bolts (TR'ed at 5.10-). We removed the offending runner and climbed the top section of the white dihedral to the top (enabling the TR finish).

This route is just left of "The Six Fingered Fist." Climb loose thin face moves along a seam past 2 bolts to a fixed pin at the base of a diagonal crack (crux). The first bolt is a great looking 5/16"?, the second is rusted and sticks WAY out, the fixed pin looks good. Then thin jamming up the diagonal crack to a fixed anchor (5.10-).

This is the bolted face route to the left of "The Snakeye Pillar" route. Crux move by the first bolt and then it eases some and is continuous 5.8-5.9 to the top.

This is the clean low angle dihedral just right of High Tops and just left of Stink Steak. Climb great white varnish with great pro. There is a bolt and fixed pin near the top which are unnecesary but clip em' anyway! These were a convenience anchor,but, why not top out?

Scrappy offwidth that could clean up nicely with traffic. Suffers from interspersed ledges, but the final squeeze is very enjoyable. We did it in two pitches but could easily be done in one without much rope drag.

Grovel up a slot with a tree at its base to a vegetated ledge. At the back of the ledge, a trihedral takes you up to an obvious deep hand crack on the right side of an ear formation. Carefully surmount the horn at the top of the ear to another ledge at the base of a flared slot. Belay here or continue up the glorious squeeze chimney using good edges. The slot widens up to the base of a constriction that forces you to exit the chimney (crux). Once around the constriction, dive back into the chimney and grovel up to a big ledge at the top. Belay takes hand sized pieces accessed by laying on your stomach at the back (west) edge of the ledge.

Route would benefit from rap anchors, two ropes would be required.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Pyramid