Follow an obvious line for 5 bolts to a rest near some bushes. Then move right to a rest below a slab. A hard slab move gains a big rail below the roof. Pull the roof to the anchor. Great varied climbing. It is a good find by Kent.

Lost In A Lost World

Unknown with Two Bolts

Hobo Arete

Right Leaning

V Dihedral

Don't Panic

Unnamed Bulbous Face

Gomer Pyle

Am I Right?

The Escapist

Fearless Leader

Salami Mami

Good Vibrations

Safety in Numbers

GV to VD

Zorra

Skyline Arete

Lost Souls

My...Nice Knobs You Have

Clocks

Foxy Lady

Blowing Raspberries

One Move Wonder

This is the clean face immediately left of

Lost in a Lost World

, on the lower right tier of Lost Rock (basically, straight uphill from where you cross the creek, at the big boulder). It climbs seams and horizontals, passing five black-hangered bolts to anchors up and over the ledge. Please leave the lowering biners on the quicklinks; if you take them and lower through the quicklinks, then rope spaghetti will be your karmic reward. Also, step carefully around the little bansai tree passing the last boltlet it be, let it do its thing.

This is a fine, little, face climb with a couple of bouldery sequences in the middle. For full value, don't stem left off the back ramp at the third bolt. Hell, even if you do, you still have to step back on and pull a crux.

On Aug. 9, 2011, I began in a short, left-facing dihedral, down and to the right of the other routes on the upper-left tier. I climbed the dihedral (crux) and continued up a narrow slab protected by two bolts. At about 100 feet, I missed the two-bolt anchor at a ledge on the right. Instead, I continued up dangerous, loose rock. I eventually left an old sling on a block and rapped, finding the correct anchors on the way down. The best part of the climb is at the bottom.

Scramble up a dirty, sloping ledge to the corner (easier coming in from the left). Climb the corner, then follow black bolts, with two different cruxes, to an offwidth finale and the anchor.

Between Blood Donor and Misanthrope, climb a right-leaning crack. I led Jeana up this on Aug. 9, 2011.

Climb V-dihedral to two-bolt anchor mentioned in

Skyline Arete

description. Lower off, rather than stand on the moving block. I led my wife, Jeana, up this on Aug. 9, 2011. It was a good summer for raspberries.

It appears that the previous submission,

mountainproject.com/v?bould…

, was deleted.  So, here's a reentry:

This is a short route with a bit of power required.  The crux is a power layback near the ground with tricky gear.  It's best not to fall down low.  There is a bit of lichen on the route.

You can set up a TR off of

My...Nice Knobs You Have

or

Clocks

.

About 3 years ago, we wandered up this small face on an explore day.  Shortly afterwards, a communication with Greg Hand, I believe, suggested this face had been done previously.  Our conversation, as I recall, didn't lead to a name.  Time has passed, and these old neurons may fizzle, so here's an entry...before senility.

This face can be done in 2 ways 5.8 or 5.9. Just to the right of

Gomer Pyle

, there is a curious, bulbous face that drew the eye. The first is to climb the first half of

Gomer Pyle

.  Move right onto a bulbous face with the 5.9ish crux turning a tiny bulge.  Follow easy terrain to a ledge.

Or start down and below at the base of the slab.  Start on a nice slab, 5.8, the terrain eases in difficulty on the upper half.

You can scramble down and right or rap off the tree.

Kent or Greg, if you have more info or want to adopt this page, let me know.

This is a fun, inviting pitch with a grungier direct finish or more interesting variation finish to the right.  We stumbled upon this after climbing

Ashley's Roof

on an explore day.  Communicating with Kent Lugbill and Greg Hand, we were perhaps the 2nd group on the face.

Ascend a fun slab to a triangular stance.  Continue up with natural pro opportunities that seem to just appear almost whenever you think you want it.  At ~70' up, there is a comfy ledge.  You can continue straight up (scruffy with a 5.7 move near the top) or traverse right ~20 feet (stay low to avoid a loose block), and then move out onto a fun, bulbous face to a tree on a big ledge.

Scramble off down and right into a gully and back to the base.  You can apparently continue above to another pitch or two.

Follow the bolt line up a series of horizontals to the crux, at the second bolt, which can be done one of two ways. Staying left of the bolt utilizing crimps or right doing a bouldery sequence. Either way you end up slapping up a left-facing corner to the anchor. A stickclip is recommended.

Head up the crack left of the dead tree. The crux is the overhanging section of crack.  Head up then right under the next overhang. You can clip the last bolt on

...Nice Knobs

before reaching the anchor.

The crux is harder than it looks, the jams are painful, and the rock is filthy but it's pretty fun. You might as well at least top rope it after

...Knobs

.

This route name was inspired by the Bullwinkle J. Moose thread on Super Topo.  It brought back memories from my childhood, especially since I grew up in Frostbite Falls, Minnesota (well at least Minnesota). Crux is from 2nd to 4th bolt. Climbing is continuous and may require a fearless leader.

Climb an awkward layback with some lichen (placing Camalots) to a ledge. Follow 3 bolts past interesting moves to another ledge. Move left and stand on a spike to reach the thin undercling. After one move, you can clip the last bolt which affords good protection for the crux moves. At this point, you will see a 2-bolt anchor to the right. That is for the crack climb below it. Place a red Alien in a letter box and climb straight up on well featured rock to a 2-bolt anchor at the top.

Start just left of the knob wall at a thin crack. Climb the crack and then make a awkward move to reach a small ledge. Stack gear in flakes and then move into a short corner. Climb the corner and then a face stemming on two knobs.

Clip the last bolt on the knob route and then reach the anchors.

From the start of

Good Vibrations

, climb up and trend leftish to the anchors at the top of

V Dihedral

. I led Jeana up this on Aug. 9, 2011.

Climb up a series of horizontals, before encountering the crux below a small roof, and move left to easier ground and the anchor.

Successfully escaping the weekend crowds, I led Mike Endicott up this on Aug. 7, 2011. This is the leftmost route on the upper-left tier. From the main ledge at the base of V-dihedral, climb a narrow face to left of the V-dihedral, bearing left to the left edge of the face. Continue up right side of arete to where it is blocked by a bulge. Move right under the bulge, then up and right to a ledge. Move right along ledge, then step down to a two-bolt anchor. Belay. The block you are now standing on MOVES!

Follow gray bolts to the top. There are minor cruxes at most bolts. After the 7th bolt, follow either grove (left or right) to anchors. Gear may be wanted here. Good climbing is interrupted by many ledges.

Climb the obvious knob covered wall past two bolts to a small ledge. Use a hold on the rounded arete and reach left to a flake...crank a hard move, passing two bolts and then reach another ledge. Angle up and a little left past the fifth bolt and then reach the anchor.

This is a cruxy slab climb with a long reach.  The crux is around the 2nd bolt with a deadpoint or lunge that may frustrate the vertically challenged.  The grade eases up afterwards, but the lichen keeps you on edge.

Climb up steep rock, don’t skip the thin gear placements in the overhang (PG13), to a small ledge before moving left. Do a big move to horizontals above and climb the face to the anchor.

From start of

Lost Souls

, parallel

LS

to its left in a dirty crack. Reach an overlap, and lieback a really nice, clean, left-leaning crack, which begins steeply and ends too soon. Move rightish toward the anchors atop

Lost Souls

. I led Jeana up this on Aug. 9, 2011, after we stuffed ourselves on raspberries during the bushwhack to the upper-left tier.

Layback the crack, just left of "

Am I Right?

", to a bolt before stepping right into the V notch (awkward).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lost Rock