Starts on the huge undercling on the left side of the boulder and traverses right into the starting pockets of A.C.L. then tops out straight up. I was falling day after day on the last two hard moves but it eventually happened. Very brutal climb so go get it done and tell me whatcha think!

Not Without Hope

Way of the Samurai

Not Every Pony Grows Up to be a Pegasus

A.C.L.

The Noir Mini

The Warmup

The Crack Problem

Stone Cold Stunner

Shake Junt

So named because it is by far the shortest and easiest of the 3 left to right traverses on the boulder. Start on the far left jugs as for Way of the Samurai/Not Without Hope. Traverse 5-10 feet right into the starting jugs of the Warmup and finish that problem.

Fun little problem for anyone looking for a little extra motivation to actually do the scary top out of the Warmup. Also quite a nice warmup if you're working the longer traverses on the boulder!

I'm assuming this has definitely been done before so if anyone knows who did it first or if they decided to name it, feel free to edit the climb info.

Grade is a complete guess, go do it and tell me how hard you think it is.

An odyssey of burl. Start with both hands matched on the massive undercling lip thingy, then traverse right through awesome pockets, crazy footwork, myriad dynamic moves, and finally finish on Shake Junt, via the heinous move to a jug (NOT the easy left-exit).

A good workout, by the way.

Anyone who has climbed with me knows how partial I am to traverses. So yes, I'm biased. But I promise: this rig is exceptionally fun, sustained, and gymnastic.

Body tension required. dimple holds allow for a couple or 3 fingers, but they're never really good enough, and with blind feet after beaching yourself on top, it's sure to be exciting! Word on the street is that the SDS used to go at V8, but the starting jugs broke. stand is a hard 7.

See

americanrivierabouldering.b…

Again, had to pick a grade it is a requirement. This is hard to know for this line as it has only seen one ascent that I know of.  Just left of Shake joint, start on down pulling hole. Cross left hand to two finger slopey pocket and out to gaston. Head straight up the arete-like feature on bad slopers and find your way out.

Nicely featured patina holds lead to a spicy top-out. Great rock, cool crux. Kinda scary, though. Make sure the stuff up top is brushed.

Obvious large off-width/squeeze crack. You can lie-back, jam, squeeze, knee-bar, or otherwise finagle your way up. Realistically, it's a 5.9/10 crack-climb, but as a boulder problem it will probably feel like a V2 to those who like cracks, and harder for those who don't. Most people begin on large hueco, then move up and left in to crack system.

Looking for a burly traverse? This line provides some hard, stretched-out moves on good holds, with lots of foot re-adjustments. Powerful, and surprisingly technical. Also pumpy.

Start sitting as for Shake Junt, then traverse up and left through myrad pockets, crimps, and pinches. Figure out how to transition feet left, and gain the jugs on the central "warm up" of the Noir Boulder (doesn't have a name, but it's the easiest "up" line on the boulder). The top-out isn't hard, but don't expect a giveaway.

Very tiring!

Sit start on big pockets. Head straight up with flowingly awesome movement through the crux that is gaining the lip. Hard shoulder moves and big move to the jug will find you standing on top.

I had to pick a grade but as more folks do this rig we will gain better understanding of what this line is-could be harder? could be easier?

EDIT: there is an alternative (read: significantly easier) finish to Shake Junt as well. Instead of the burly deadpoint to the bucket-jug, finish up and left, using the slopey jug on the warmup. Still good, just not as hard.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Noir Boulder