Real deal Wonderly route, and definitely the hardest and most serious on the wall.   This route climbs the varnished crack below the "hill" on the left.  Scramble down from Black Streak.  

 Climb the varnished crack, fiddling in a nut or two before the first bolt (20' up).  Another 10' gets you to the 2nd bolt. Another 30', maybe there's a nut or slung horn, until the 3rd bolt. The last bit is easier, 5.5? but you'll be going a ways before you sling another horn 15' below the anchor.

The Negative

Gamblers Anonymous

Don't Come Line

Five Card Stud

Black Streak

Start just right of the Don't Come Line. Climb the 5.7 chimney (solo or optional .5 cam). Bridge past the bushes, and follow a line of bolts to the massive hueco above.

I think the movement on this route makes it worthwhile.P1.10a. 60'. Start up the corner (2 bolts) and pull around the left. A few large nuts or small cams and a .75 camalot in a horizontal will protect you until the 2nd bulge.  Above, sling a horn and move right of the blank section of rock.  Bravely pull up to very good holds and locks that allow you to pull up to the anchor ledge.P2. 5.8. 120'.  Head up the crack directly above the anchor.  When the cracks starts to pinch down head right and run it out to the bolt.  Make another 20' run-out to the 2nd bolt (5.7).  Continue climbing to the top past more bolts, all in a straight line and easily located.  Bolted anchor.

This route is pretty good and seems to last forever.  Take it serious right off the ground, taking the right trending crack to the bolt and pull the lip.  Run up to the headwall, clip some bolts, and memorably sling the horn above your head. Above this brief vertical section the route catches a methodical slab rhythm.  One more crux (5.8 mantle) will give you pause, but be the thing you talk about back at the bags.

This is the line you can see from the loop, and it's exactly what it looks like.  Fun slab climbing bottom to top, with a final bulge pull to the anchor.  Bring a cam (.3-.75) for that final crack. 

Directly below Stratocaster Wall is an intriguing face of rock, easily identified by the Black Streak. Many have wondered, few have wandered.The routes here have a particular flavor profile that will be exactly what some seek, but might not be to the general public's taste.   The lines are long, slabby in spots, bolted spicily, surrounded by crunchy rock, and have very good movement.If you're not up for the head games, single line rap from the top for some long fun top roping.The Don't Come Line can be rappelled with a single 70m rope (2 raps, mind the puddle).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in B&W Wall