Another good Sonic Youth crag pumpfest.  Sustained climbing on the same bomber rock you have come to love about this wall.

Black Flag

Agent Orange

Slam Dancin' With The Amish

Last but least

Fearless Freaks

Crankenstein

Hooligans

Unknown Pile

I Would for You

Sonic Youth

Loki

Start at the huecos, and climb to a slopey ledge. Finish by following a seam to the anchor.  Keep moving as the route is fairly continuous...

Climb the very crimpy face on vertical to slightly overhanging rock to a bad rest. The crux comes at about 3/4 of the way up and if that's not enough its still hard 11 after that and by then you're PUMPED. Long fall potential off the top if your too pumped to make the final moves to the anchor.

This is a pretty good route with a few cruxes. Low down There are some tough laybacks to start, and higher up, getting established above the bolted bulge. Both are 5.9-ish.   Approach the climb via a heady scramble (no gear if roped) and set a belay at the base of a 6" thick right-facing flake. CLimb the flake to a ledge ~8 meters up, then climb on face holds past a few bolts at a featured bulge (crux). Finish the climb on gear and belay up top. 

Originally thought this might be a warm up but it turns out it was harder than it initially looked. 

Paul put this route up thinking it would be a warm up. It turns out its harder than it first looks. Slabby delicate face climbing to a slight bulge at the top.

The prominent waterstreak with pockets on the upper tier above Sonic Youth. The bottom starts out with 5.9ish face and pulling on fun pockets to a bolt. From there up then right to the obvious crux, an overhang with big, big jugs to crank out on. Hard moves are just after the second bolt, after the third bolt it eases up and big pockets head up to the anchor. Nice big holds! An unsustained but interesting route with a 12 ft crux, not a lot of happy gear placements, so be strong above second and last bolt.

Broken holds. No chalk. Homemade hangers. Plenty of lichen, grit, and crumblies... 

  ...but if you want to tick the crag, you have to do it!

Climbs the crumbling corner at the right margin of the wall.

Very thin crimpy first half crux, then pumpy steep finish, harder than Sonic Youth, IMO

This is an excellent route!  The namesake of the Sonic Youth cliff, this route climbs through a series of pockets and crimps on the lighter-colored rock just left of the waterstreak. The crux starts past the halfway point and continues through the top (endurance), which includes pulling a bulge on some small crimps. =) 

  This is a "must do" if you visit this area of Sandstone Quarry!

The rock doesn't look as good as the other routes but its actually not bad. If you can find the knee bar rest (thanks to Bob Conz who could find a knee bar on 11+ slab) and the hand jams at the top its not too bad. The top moves are pumpy if you didn't find all the rests.

The Sonic Youth Cliff is a NE facing cliff that is within perhaps 10 minutes walk of the Sandstone Quarry Parking lot. The cliff contains several lines, both trad and sport, primarily 5.11 and harder, though there are a few exceptions.    The cliff is just far enough from the lot to escape the crowds of non-climbers, but as for how many climbers may be there, I have no guess. I was there on a bad-weather day.   The rock is fairly typical of the Red Rocks lighter colored stone, with the exception of a few routes that are in solution-pocketed water streaks.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sonic Youth Cliff