Climb a crack, pass a flake at its left end, and climb a runout face up to a fun crux overhang at the top.  This route has steep face climbing, with some positive pockets, some loose rock, and very little protection.  On the positive side, it is in a shady location.

East Meets West

Grain Harvest

Double Crux

Absence of Malice

With Malice and Forethought

Circle of Benevolence

Crank Queenie

Disco Sucks

Presence of Grace

Mosaic

Climbs a right-facing flake past 3 horizontal cracks and concludes with a mantle onto a dike.

Good starting move with lots of flake climbing and a second crux about 2/3rds up when things thin out a bit. Helmet is suggested for all of those below as the remains of the flakey rock is quite apparent at the base of the climb and much of it sounds hollow.

Not particularly worth the scramble unless you're setting other routes too.

The original route up this attractive smooth face is

a completely independent route for it's entire length and climbs along the right side of the steep varnished seam.

With Malice and Forethought is located on the north side of the Varnished Wall, about 40' to the left of Crank Queenie.

Climb up a crack, clip the bolt, and then pull through the roof to the right and easier ground.

Start just right of

With Malice and Forethought

and climb up past a horizontal crack to reach a face with two bolts. Cut left to join

With Malice and Forethought

after the second bolt and belay from a ledge.

Good moves on clean, solid rock make this a fun climb to do if in the area.

Crank Queenie is located on the NW side of the Varnished Wall.  It is a shallow hand crack that is a bit tricky to protect for the first 20' (sideways-placed nuts, awkward cam placements).  Above, the crack deepens and is quite pleasant.

Anchor: slung horn(s).

Descent: scramble off to climber's right or rap off slung horns as for With Malice and Forethought.

Your standard Jtree jug haul. There wasn't a move harder then 5.2 once you are on the primary face. Not sure where the guide rating of 5.6 comes from.

Start right of

With Malice and Forethought

(same as for Circle of Benevolence) and climb past a horizontal crack to access a smooth face with two bolts. The climb heads right after the second bolt and passes a fixed pin in a left-slanting seam before topping out.

Perhaps viewed as a variation to Circle of Benevolence, or that as a variant to this, the climbing is fun on good rock all within a short walk of your car. What more could you want?

This is a face route on good rock.  Climb up past a bolt and continue to the top, using gear for protection.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Varnished Wall