This is a fantastic face route on right side of the South Face.

It starts via a thin crack (5.10 or a one bolt face variation at 5.11a) on the front side of a big detached block to a bolted belay.

The crux P2 takes a tough move through an undercling to a bolt, from here one can go left and do

Crucifiction

(5.11d), another bolt and a right leaning undercling/flake. From here a bolt leads to a very dicey highstep/mantel on a knob before finishing at a bolted belay.

P3 adopts similar face moves through three bolts with another 5.11a move about halfway up. P2 and P3 can be combined, but when we did it in three due to the continuously tough climbing.

Edging shoes are a must! Highly Recommended

Disco Jesus

Picante

Twilight Delight

Crucifiction

Midnight Sun

Orange Roughy

Major

Archangel

Hades

Christ on a Cracker

Judazz

Miscalculation

Minuet

It's a Mayracole

Minor

Spring Cleaning

Knocking on Heaven's Door

Short Story

Hell's Angel

12b Or Not 12b

Palm Sunday

10b or not 10b

Dark Angel

Its a Kind of Magic

This is a short but memorable arete problem.  It is near the left side of a flake that leans up against the wall.  I made a long lunge at the crux, starting from small holds.  After the crux, much easier climbing leads up to the top of the flake, and a two bolt anchor.

Make a few committing moves up to the first bolt, then pass a few bolts while tending up and left. From the fifth bolt move right a bit and follow a series of small sharp edges to a final move that obtains the last bolt. Easier climbing tends up and right to the top of Miscalculation.

Start just left of Hell’s Angel

. Pitch 1. (50 feet, 5.9) Climb a steep right-facing dihedral with a 4-inch crack to a big ledge (Twilight Ledge) and a 2-bolt anchor. Pitch 2. Climb up and left on a slab past 2 bolts (5.9) to join Short Story.

Thin, balancy slab climbing on very good rock.

Pitch 1: Do the first pitch of

Disco Jesus

or the first pitch of

Knocking on Heaven's Door

.

Pitch 2: Do the opening moves of Disco Jesus' second pitch (11b).  From the first bolt follow the slick quartz band as it angles up left.  At the end of the quartz band go straight up on thin moves (11d) past more bolts.  This climbing is just right of an obvious groove.  There is a substantial easy runout (5.7) from the last bolt to the top, but given the preceeding difficulties it shouldn't be a concern.

This variation climbs the beautiful slab above Twilight Ledge, joining Hell’s Angel for its last 3 bolts, avoiding the scary lower half of Hell’s Angel. The upper half of this pitch has some excellent quality stone.

From Twilight Ledge climb the slab past 3 bolts (10+), then move right to a 4th bolt. Head up and left, then straight up past 2 more bolts up to a curving ledge (Sickle Ledge). 12a above the last bolt.

2-bolt anchor. Rap 80 feet to Twilight Ledge and another 2-bolt anchor, then rap another 50 feet to the ground. Or, rap with 2-ropes (140 feet).

Short finger layback crack. Very featured Rock unlike the rest of the area.

This climb is easy to locate - a deep, narrow slot near the right end of the wall.  Easy chimneying leads to an unpleasant exit sequence.

Excellent rock, as is the norm on the South Face.

The first bolt is slightly high. Climb past the first bolt and obtain the left leaning offset/groove. Follow this past two more bolts. An interesting feature can be found in this area, a small mono hole that helps with the moves. At the third bolt move left to gain a section of easier ground. Proceed more or less straight up past 3 more bolts. A final crux will be found above the last bolt.

Brilliant climbing on impeccable rock. Definitely stands out for it's quality, variety, and difficulty. Unusual (for Suicide) face climbing that follows a flake system on pitch one, with a hard crux sequence on pitch two.

Pitch 1: Choose the original start or one of the bolted variations (all with high first bolts) to gain the corner/flake system that arches up and right.  A bolt protects the crux moves (5.12) where the arch curves right, followed by good climbing to a final bolt at the top of the arch.  Clip this bolt and move left (5.11) then up into the 10a corner, ending at a bolted belay. Superb climbing/quality pitch.

Pitch 2: A committing move gets you to the first bolt, then make moves (5.11) up to and over a small roof. Clip another bolt and prepare for the crux sequence (5.12+?) moving up and right to the good hold. Easy from the end of the crux. Both of the bolts on this pitch can be difficult to clip because they were placed on the aid FA. There may, or may not, be slings in place to facilitate free climbing clips. This pitch may be a little height dependent - the taller the better. Hard pitch with good climbing in a great location.

There is a two bolt anchor on the left at the end of the second pitch. An 80' rappel reaches back to the belay at the end of pitch one.

Start on Picante, at the fourth bolt angle left and clip one more bolt then climb up and left to finish at the second anchor of Disco Jesus.  It's a Heavenly experience, but you will mutter the name of this climb because of the tiny crackers you have to stand on and for the sustained nature of the climbing.

This uses some of Disco Jesus but is mostly new territory.

P1: Climb to first anchor for Disco Jesus.

P2: Climb right of anchor to nice layback jug and a cool step up to a stance. Then up and left to join Disco for 2 bolts. Where Disco goes right go straight up to a brown Africa looking plate. From here get to the P2 Disco anchors, clip for pro then move straight left for about 10 ft and then straight up on nice crisp brown patina edges.

Alt P2: Before Africa flake step further left and up to stance and then straight up into Judazz finish skipping DJ P2 anchor, 5.12ish (TR Only).

This route provides a full pitch of aesthetic, strenuous crack climbing.  It requires a wide variety of techniques:  finger jams, flared toe jams, and unusual stemming.  The protection is good, and the route is in the sun all day.  There is a rappel station (2 ropes needed) near the top of the climb.

This face climb is sandwiched between two prominent crack routes:  Spring Cleaning and Major.  A thin crux sequence leads to exciting and fun climbing up an arete.  There are several rappel stations near the top of the climb.

The name of this route is a fun play on the names of the first ascent party.

Very challenging and sustained climbing.  A couple of the bolts are extremely difficult to clip, in particular the last one.  The rock is also a little flakey in places, adding an additional challenge.

Climb past the first 2 bolts (10d) and do difficult moves (11b) in a bit of a runout position to obtain the 3rd bolt.  The crux (11d) is encountered passing the 4th bolt and there is an 11a runout from the last bolt to the top (gets easier as it goes - fortunately).

This clean, well-protected hand crack is in the sun all day.  It would be a good route for a novice leader.  You can rappel from the top.

This is an excellent lieback.  The only caution is that a large flake is wedged into the crack, about half way up.  It has stayed there through many ascents, but don't pull on it too hard.  Rappel from the top or scramble off.  Being in a large, left-facing dihedral, it is in the shade in the morning.

Difficult underclinging and face climbing. Slick rock beneath the undercling arch.

Pitch 1: Climb the lieback flake in the left facing corner formed by the exfoliation slab.

Pitch 2: Do the opening moves of the second pitch of

Disco Jesus

(11b). Follow the arch left via thin underclinging and face climbing (11d). Clip a bolt and make moves (11b) left and then up into the 10a corner.  Belay at the top of the corner.

It is possible to do the last pitch of

Hades

for a third pitch (at a grade harder than 11d).

This climb is at the left end of the South Face, at a large, right-facing corner.  Some 4th class scrambling to the right of the corner leads to the start of the route.  Climb the corner in two fun pitches of crack climbing.  It is in the sun all day.

A real South Face classic.  Good climbing with some scary moves down low thrown into the mix.

Climb over the small overlaps on the slab at the start of the route.  A scary 11b mantle above the second bolt provides some excitement.  At the 4th bolt angle left, passing 3 more bolts before gaining the two bolt anchor on the ledge.  Thin slab moves (12a) yield a challenging crux at the last bolt.

Difficult climbing from the first bolt to the third bolt.  It’s a little spicy going from the 2nd bolt to the third bolt. (The third bolt is the first bolt of 10b Or Not 10b). This route is a direct start to 10b Or Not 10b.

This is a sustained thin face route.  To descend, rap from the top of Spring Cleaning, just to the right.

Difficult climbing from the very start.  At first glance this climb appears devoid of holds but as soon as one pulls onto the wall, small but positive edges appear.  The rock is immaculate quality and dark in color, studded with tiny crystals.  Steep edging at the bottom gives way to a rest stance and then turns into ultra classic 5.10 smearing and edging.   The holds on this climb appear seemingly out of nowhere.  Don't let the name fool you.  Have faith.

Bold 5.10c climbing to the second bolt with ground fall potential, then a difficult 5.12c crux through thin edges, leading to a runout 5.10c section then joining Its a Mayracole at it's second to last bolt.  A long, calf pumping, mentally taxing pitch of excellent quality.  The first two bolts were placed a long time ago but the route had not been finished, until now.

Description

Protection

Routes in (e) South Face