This beginning of this route was destroyed by rockfall in the spring of 2007. The remainder of the climb remains intact and quite fun. A rare and great adventure awaits the curious climber who ventures up this gritty and scenic line.

Route navigation is a must here as this line is seldom traveled and faintly marked by protectable features. Expect to build anchors and use what's given to safely ascend your team to the top of the waterfall.

Protection and quality improve as you ascend. Expect a few nice surprises here and there, as there are natural and maybe a few fabricated anchors along the way. Thoughtfully rappel MMS or walk off lookers RIGHT (west) via game trails back to the bottom.

Since this line remains somewhat primitive, the pitch count is subjective. Gear can sometimes be tricky to find, but I wouldn't call this route dangerous. Saddle up and have fun!

Mountain Monkey Swing

Master Scriptorian

Evening Falls

Bolted Ape

Snow Slab

Viet Cong Corner

Toe Shoes

Pandora's Blocks

Unknown

Dancing in the Moonlight

Astair

A Pinch of Salt

Done and Dusted

Monkey Talk

Ape Index

Tap N Stance

Small Block

Plain Kipper

Daddy Long Legs

More Funky Than Monkey

The Block Party

The River's Edge

Grinning Gibbons

The only thing ape-ish about this line is its name and you won't need to be 6'4" with +12 ape index to enjoy a good slabbing time.

Start in a faint broken dihedral and gingerly work up to the first bolt avoiding suspect flakes and patches of dirt. A couple small pieces here and there ease the mind until you can clip the first button head. From there, a couple touchy slab moves and crystal pinches bring you to a faint dike and better holds. Clip the 2nd bolt and start shuffling up and left along increasingly filthy flakes. A last bit of slabby trickery brings you to the chains.

Slightly runout but easy at the start, a bit unnerving at the crux if you haven't backed up the button heads. Creative gear placements protect the top.

The Master Scriptorian climbs the beautiful, white tiered slab exposed by the rockfall that eliminated Mountain Monkey Swing (K. Davis, B. Robins, 1985).  Scramble 200 feet up the left side of the Great White Icicle--easy 4th to 5th class--to the base. Climb balancey moves on crisp edges past two bolts.  Mantle the first roof, then stem your way up the corner, taking advantage of the small wires and cam placements...  Mantle past the second roof and onto the steeper slab above.  After two bolts, the climbing eases as face holds and cracks appear.  Belay from a stance on a protruding block; the bolt can be backed up using small wires or cams.

From the top of the second pitch of Daddy Long Legs, angle up and right on the slab.  Follow the bolt line slightly left and then head for the crack to the right which leads to the large tree.

The guide book notes that there are two bolts for a rappel station at the tree, but the rappel station is simply webbing around the tree.  Bring some webbing in case the ones up there look suspect.  Rappel down to the double bolts on the route.  It might be good to have some extra webbing at the bolts also.  Rappel from the bolts to the top of the second pitch of Daddy Long Legs where there are rap rings.  From there rappel down the 11's to the bushy gully.

Located on the slabs east of the Great White Icicle. This is the bolt line on climber's left of the slab. Friction up a surprisingly good slab with just enough crystals to keep you from peeling off. There are two or three positive dikes along the way that feel like jugs after padding your way up between bolts. The bolt spacing is flirting with a PG rating. Surprisingly fun shizz.

Snow Slab climbs the center of this slab.  Halfway up there is a prominent water streak exiting a thorn filled slot.  Snow Slab stays left of this feature.  Easy climbing with not much good gear. Hard to discern this route.  Just follow the easiest line. 70 meter rope for the rap or some downclimbing.

A hard start leads to a good sustained finger sized corner followed by a wide lay back and delicate exit.

A good slab climb with great movement and a committing finish.

Toe Shoes

follows a line of five well-placed bolts to its crux, where the real business begins.

Climb a broken seam for about 15 feet to the first bolt. Pull a small roof and lean left towards another bolt. Work the slab up and right heading for a rest at a wide undercling. Continue straight up here to the last bolt and punch the crux. Head towards an arcing seam and run it out a good distance to the ledge. Climb with confidence, blowing the moves above the crux will result in a long ride! Belay up and left at an anchor.

This route is located between "The Great White Icicle" and "Pentapitch" area.  There are two approaches.  From pentapitch parking, take the Wasatch climbing guide description for the waterfall area.  Once you get to the "icicle," head up canyon(east) past "ape index" slab following the base.  Approximately 50-100 yards further you will see a shallow right facing dihedral.  The slab with bolts just east is the start.  The other approach heads up(east) the bike/hike trail turning right(south) 25 yards before a black pipe crosses the trail and before the secret garden bolders.  Link "high school party areas" and trails crossing small streams, heading southeast up toward major talus.  Where the talus meets a low toung of the cliff head down canyon(west) along the base until you see bolts.

P1.  Climb good friction to an overlap and leftward traverse into a layaway flake.  Finish with a bulge.  9 bolts.  90' 5.10+  P2.  A bit contrived!  Climb loose 4th class to the base of a 50' slab.  Do 5 bolts and supplemental gear to the chains. 5.9- 110ish'  (move the belay down and across the gully to a tree ledge, not disturbing "Pandora's Blocks")  P3.  From the tree ledge chimney behind a bolder and do mixed gear and bolts angling up and right thru roofs.  A black alien takes the "sting" out below bolt 2.  80' 5.10+  P4.  Do a couple bolts up the dihedral and move out and right angling to another crack system.  Take this system thru the big roof. 80' 5.10+ brass helpful  Decent.  Rap the route w/ 60 meter.

A tricky lead on a broken slab.  This unnamed route climbs the left side of Snow Slab's slab.  Protection is marginal, and the climbing is decent.  Unfortunately, the slab has the odd small ledge with dirt on it, as you climb up it.  Link up weaknesses, until you can see a bolt with no hanger.  Use it, and continue up the blank, exciting slab with no protection, until a hidden bolt appears.  Continue up to the anchors.  70 meter rope for the rappel or some downclimbing.

This climb starts like it's neighbors, as a hard to discern runout slab route.  After the 1st belay though, things change (for the good).  The first pitch climbs the far right side of the Snow Slab, using the thorn filled slot, stemming kept you out of their reach here.  After the belay ledge, exit out left up the steep wall.  Look for good steps up and out, to anice juggy finish.  Clip the bolt, and wander left over the slab to a crack.  Protect here and there, us you move up the narrowing crack, to a steeper slab.  Find a tree, and belay.  The steep section of climbing off the belay ledge is loose, so beware.

Crux move was getting on the slab after the roof and finishing the route.  If you rap, aim for the anchors of Evening Falls, and rap again, and again.

This is a good pitch despite being quite short.  A slippery slab crux at the first bolt, and nice technical face climbing for the remainder.

Start below the first bolt and climb past 3 good bolts to a sloping stance, then another slabby move past a quarter inch bolt leads to a good two bolt belay.

This is a kinder and gentler Rotert's Rooter.

Place a good piece from the ground then layback up the left edge of the buttress to and past the first bolt. Some easier climbing over dusty roofs (long slings helpfull on gear through here) brings you to the crux.

Tricky face climbing left of two bolts leads to a right leaning ramp (this is where it joins Monkey Talk) passing a peg to bolt anchor.

Not much to look at but has a lot of good climbing on it.

Climb up dirty flakes and belay in trees under a pin. Clip the pin and traverse left making some spicy moves on the arete above shit gear. You can also go straight up from the pin but expect some distance before your next piece. Easier ground takes you to another pin and a fun exit.

This is a slab route that runs past 3 bolts, a pin, then a final bolt.  The crux is getting from the 3rd bolt to the pin.  All of the bolts are old 1/4", except the one right below the crux which has been upgraded to a nice 3/8" bolt.

The crux is a diagonaling finger tips crack (flared) on slabby feet.  This route had enough other features to make it a fun slab route, and worth doing.  More ascents would help clean the route up a little more.

If you gas it in the fast lane, try not to smoke your rubber off getting over to the exit ramp!

A short and deceptive little dooby requiring everything from mantels to crack technique.

This route climbs a seam in a slab about 100 feet right of the falls.  On the left side of this slab is a bolted line (The River's Edge, 5.10b R **).  Look for a seam.

(1)  Climb up this seam through a small roof,  and past a few more pins/bolts at horizontal cracks.  Use every available pro.  Stop at the second tree and belay.  From the lower tree, you can definitely top-rope if you set up some directionals.

(2)  On pitch two, climb up through the roof (5.9) or around it to the right (5.8), up through some bushy cracks to a 2-bolt anchor.  The bolted line above is Evening Falls, 5.10a *.

Descent: Rappel the route.

Start:

30' left/east of the waterfall.

Climb the thin bolted face to a ledge with a 2-bolt/chain station.

This is the bolted line to the left of Daddy Long Legs. There is a run between the first and second bolt where a fall would put you all the way back to the ground, but the climbing is easy. After the second bolt the climbing get harder but the bolts get much closer. Fun, true slab climbing. There are no anchors up top, the best way to go is to belay from the tree at the top of the first pitch of Daddy Long Legs and then continue up the second picth and rappel from there (make sure you bring your trad gear for the second pitch).

A cerebral climb with runouts, some sketchy gear, some good gear, and a roof.

Climb the face to the right of Small Block passing a single bolt (guidebook says 2). Throw some gear in at the roof and pull the roof.  If you've chosen wisely, you mantle into some thin and unprotectable crack.  If you've chosen poorly, you get good gear but then have to traverse into the unprotectable crack.  A few more tricky moves and then a good crack leads you to the chains.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Great White Icicle Area