A short but beautiful crack climb. Ascend the obvious flake up the center of the wall, overcoming the cobbly crux section in the middle. The first ascent of this route was done with old school “friends.”

New Routes and Old Friends

A World Unworthy (project)

Flesh Eating Newts

Social Distancing

Redeem the Time

Rhodocide

Polonius

Chicanery

Pariah

Momentary Afflictions

Reverse the Curse

A decent line when it’s dry. Layback the crack up the left side of Beaver Buttress. There are some surprising incut holds on the inside of the crack to help relieve the pump of the new trad leader.

A manky start leads to what makes it all worth it: a blank section with only two sinker two-finger pockets. Dyno from pocket to pocket, and enjoy the classic 5.11 romp to the top that is shared with Pariah. 5.12d.

Route shares a start with redeem the time by climbing up to the end of the crack then stepping right and moving up a separate crack. There are 1 or 2 bolts on this climb but I can not remember where they are. Possibly at the top.

This route starts on an excellent splitter finger crack that leads to an obvious horn to sling for pro. From there, continue directly up the center of the triangular face on crimps, pockets, and edges. An interesting crux awaits near the top.

Mantle onto a small ledge just right of “New Routes and Old Friends” to start, and get your high first piece of gear in the arching layback crack above. Some sinker pockets left of the crack make placing gear much easier. Finish up on a series of edges, and share the anchors with “New Routes and Old Friends.”

Do come cool, easy moves on slightly crumbly rock to a sidepull-undercling, Then pull the the cryptic, bouldery crux protected by the bolt.

Down lowin the dihedral, there's a perfect spot for a yellow tcu to keep you from tumbing into the "pit of dispair" if you fall before the first bolt.

No one knows hows hard it is because it cannot be repeated the same way twice. Classic Cheat Canyon chicanery! This route will utilize every skill you have. Awkward chimneying leads to a smeary barn-door arête, then utilize crack climbing techniques, face climbing and arête climbing to surmount the flared crack. Avoid putting your feet on the sloping dirty ramp to the right of the cliff at the beginning. Stay on the rock for full credit.

A powerful boulder problem on perfect holds designed for climbing, leads directly into another powerful boulder utilizing a mono and a few slaps up a sloping rail. Classic 5.11- climbing on a series of underclings, sidepulls, and pinches leads to shuts.

Climber’s right of “Rhodocide” there is a cave between two very large boulders. On the left side of it, you will find an obvious flake and crack system above. Climb the wide flake up to an offwidthy section. Just as it is in life, the pain is only temporary. Thrash through and end at bolt anchors. Bring #4 and #5 Camalots. Hexes work nicely too.

6 stars? There are plenty of harder, more striking lines, but none that capture the absurdity of rock climbing more appropriately.  Share the first two bolts of Chicanery (the crack that ascends the right side of the buttress), but before clipping the third bolt, traverse left to the blunt arête, passing the infamous “shadow match,” a move seldom done except in deep winter gym sessions and circus tricks. Try not to let your giddy giggles punt you off as you desperately pull over the arête, then dance up immaculate holds on consistent technical climbing.  There are holds are right where you need them.  If you don’t like this route, you need to quit rock climbing.

Beta video:

youtube.com/watch?v=8l0258V…

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sandcrag