Pitch 1

: Start on the right/west end of the North face, linking small weaknesses to a big ledge at 180+ feet. Build a belay and/or move belay around the corner 50 feet to the right.

Pitch 2

: Climb a large left facing corner, staying left below steep roofs....a very smooth slab section is mastered using holds on the right and a long reach. Belay on obvious nice ledge.

Pitch 3

: Start by climbing either of two left angling cracks for about 25 feet (fingers on the right, thin hands on the left)....avoid large roof by moving right along a nice shelf/flake (long slings to avoid rope drag!!)....then straight up steeper rock/crack to large shale covered ledge (sling sharp edged boulder for belay).

Pitch 4

: Scramble left along the ledge (loose shale!!), and climb 50 feet to summit (sling boulder to belay).

To descend

: From the boulders atop the route, scramble south along the shale ridge towards the true summit, and then angle down a nice ramp to the left (east) to a group of pine trees. Three single rope rappels off nice, live pine trees reaches the scree at the base of the northeast face.

Bolted anchors go with a single 70m rope, a 60 will require a loose and exposed albeit short downclimb

Eleventh Hour

Eleven-Thirty

Afternoon Delight

11th hour 3rd pitch variation

From the belay ledge after the corner pitch traverse left for about 15 feet, you can put pro in at the first crack and continue to the next. Climb this second crack with great finger locks and hand jambs for about 30 to 40 feet. You'll come to a roof with a fixed u stem cam, which I clipped wit a double shoulder sling. After clipping this or setting your own cam go left under and around the overhang. Another 10 feet or so of climbing brings you to the crux roof, great gear here with long runners and terrific exposure, clip your piece look down and smile at the exposure, then fire the roof, kinda awkward but fun. Over the roof the crack continues to a stance and gear you can go left in the same crack or right to another crack, left didn't look as fun. Work up to a ledge with lots of spots for pro along the way. The ledge is dirty and covered in shale. Figure out how to pull it walk 10 feet and continue up another crux short slab section to a slot that places you on the top. Be very careful about loose stuff from the ledge to the top. Bring long slings or the rope drag will suck!

Climb pitch1 and 2 of the Eleventh hour, then when you get to the big corner go right up the roof through an exceptional offwidth to a ledge.  After the ledge go left to rejoin the eleventh hour.

I realize this has likely been climbed by someone else first, please feel free to list that person.

Following first pitch/s of Eleventh Hour, at start of corner pitch climb right 40 feet to top of pillar than down climb 10 feet to right to belay at tree. Go up W facing wall following wandering finger crack, belay on ledge with short crack below pod with arching finger crack,  crux pull through pod to follow crimps to thin crack on right side to summit.

Be careful of loose rock, tricky pro, and some gardening.

Description

Protection

Routes in Sundial