Start at the sidepull and edge on UCT and reach for a pocket with your right hand. Reach left to a very small edge with the left and fight the swing. Pop for the ramp on the right and you are done.

An amazing legacy of the 1970s, this problem has endured curiosity and controversy like the other Holloway problems. Like those others, unrepeated, yet clearly in its original condition and not height-dependent.

Trice

Hagan's Wall

Easy solo

Traverse Ramp

Jump Start of Faith

Epochalypse

New Beginnings

Highway Attraction

Contemplation

A.C.L.U (Another Contrived Link-Up)

Stranger Than Friction

Shadowline

Overcast

Cloud Shadow Traverse

East Inside Corner

Moderate Bulge

Graveyard Shift

William's Pull

The Corridor Problem

UCT into Bob's Bulge

Cloud Shadow Low

Shibby

Sailor's Delight

Reverse Consideration

Curmudgeon

Bob's Bulge

Allegro Bulge

Alcove Dyno

The Consideration

Center Eliminate

Holloway Direct

Hagan's Wall Direct

Undercling Traverse

Alcove East Overhang

Dandy Line

It starts low on the crescent moon jug and climbs into

Undercling Traverse

, V9, then exits on A.K.R., V11, (A.K.R. is similar to

Trice

; however, you get your left hand to the Trice Pocket instead of your right hand). Galen has been working on this link-up for a few days, and it was great watching him put it together and take it down. This stands to be possibly harder than the classic Cloud Shadow line called

Trice

, V12. Next time you are on Flagstaff, make sure to give Another Contrived Link-Up, V12, a try. This has great movement on a great wall.

youtu.be/0W1CnL1aLEY

This is a classic of Flagstaff mountain.  It is the first problem you come to if approaching from The Capstan.  It starts on a small two finger pocket for the right hand and a good, although painful, edge for the left.  Pull up and throw to a  sloping rail, then throw again above the rail to two not quite ideal pebbles.  The top out isn't too bad.  A great problem, it is wise to use a pad and a spotter as the crux is a little comitting.

Climb up through the cener of the traverse to a left leaning "ofwidth" ramp system.  Going left up this ramp is easy 5.4 climbing, going right however is a seldom done easy solo: angle right across the steep face on jugs to a crux 5.7+ topout on left trending holds thirty feet above the ground, the 5.9 is for the begginning moves.

This is a tad on the bold side as there is a big move five feet above the ground with a boulder in your way if you fall.  Begin right of [Hagan's Wall] and traverse a sloping ramp system up to the topout of hagans wall.  A good problem.

Start on small boulder usually used for laying out all your gear. Jump the gap to the lip of the golfclub head-shaped boulder. Top out over the lip. Don't miss or slip or you'll crack your head on the jumping rock.

Reverse UCT into

Trice

.

-Daniel Woods

This traverse adds some powerful moves to

Curmudgeon

. Begin at the left side of the roof at the point of the "nose," drop down into the big undercling and match, then head right to the slotted roof block of

Curmudgeon

and finish with that problem.

Start low on sharp pebbles and work your way up the prow. Top out at the point. The boulder to the right is obviously off.

This route starts on the right end of the wall on the same holds as

The Consideration

. Move up in to the hueco 3 feet left of

Consideration's

crux crimp edge that you use to throw to the rail (moderate bulge moves directly up from this hueco).

From here, move left along a slick ramp for your feet utilizing some interesting handholds to gain a seam that can be underclinged in order to reach straight up for a good jug. Match the jug, take a deep breath, and reach right for a small edge, left up to a good pocket, feet up and over the bulge, and rock up with a long reach to a good hueco. Committing! Yikes! Catch your breath, move right on easy moves, and you are done with one of Flagstaff Mountain's most classic highball problems.

Start matched on the block to the right. Go with your left hand to the crimp, then make a big cross to a pinch with your right, and exit via the slab up and left.

To stay true to the grade, I think the huge, detached rock out left should be off for hands and feet, but I'm not sure if this was avoided on the first ascent.

Many variations to this problem exist, check out the Flagstaff Mountain bouldering guide for more (

link

).

Start matched on the obvious low semi-circle edge right of

Hagan's Wall

and move up left to a poor edge/pinch hold. Reach right to a choice of poor right hand pinches. I used the higher one. Bring your left hand up to an obvious thin edge and bump right to the "traverse ramp". Finish up this problem.

For the full grade, the obvious keyhole slot on the right is off.

This is in the vicinity of the now defunct Yojimbo and can be considered a direct start to the ramp problem. Very crimpy and sharp but a good addition to the wall.

Just left of

Dandy-Line

is an obvious, spiky crystal. Use this and a tiny right-hand pebble to move right to a right-facing flake. Pull up on this to a higher sidepull on the left and then escape back right per

DL

and

Hagan's Wall

.

Though one can never say for sure a problem is an FA at Flagstaff, this one took a fair amount of cleaning on rappel for all the key holds. I have never heard it described before or seen chalk of any kind on it. It's a great addition to the wall.

This is the classic traverse beginning on the far right near consideration and moving far left halfway up the scary, V2 ramp.  At the end the traverse busts right and exits on high easy climbing.  This is a very sequential and classic traverse that takes a line across the middle with slippery footholds, an easier high traverse exists on better holds.

This innocuous little feature on the far right side of Cloudshadow, often graded V0 in various guides, has seen a number of sketchfests, starting with not getting off the ground and finishing with pitching off the top slab (not wise). Pull into the corner using the sloper, stand up, and then figure out how to get to the good holds above without using your hands. Usually this feels harder to me than the

Consideration

, hence the upgrade from V0.

This is a good moderate problem.  Start in the same pocket as

The Consideration

and

Contemplation

, and move straight up on good holds. From here, undercling a hueco. It is fun.

Start low with your hands close together on good edges. Get some decent little feet and go into a righthand crimp straight up. Throw a right heel onto some small edges out right and go big to a lefthand sidepull. Bump that left hand twice along more good holds, and you get into a nice topout on large slopers. Pretty fun. The landing is absolutely horrible. There's a huge gap right behind you that you can get busted up on. I keep 2 pads folded and place them over the gap, side by side, so if you fall they totally brace you. It's kinda scary missing the big left throw and trusting the pads, but if you have new stiff crashpads they won't collapse into the gap. If I used my old floppy Franklin pad, I'd be in the E.R.

This is a silly dyno halfway across the [Cloud Shadow] traverse, begin in the good pocket just before the crux on the traverse and throw way up and left to a huge jug.

In the corridor that splits the Cloud Shadow formation is a nice steep wall, facing north. Start low in a horizontal crack, just right of a leaning, thin crack and just right of a wide crack/ramp. Move more or less directly up the wall, using small crimps and flakes and exit left near the crack. The obvious ramp to the right is off for your feet.

This is a fun, steep problem on great rock. The stand start is probably V2.

This is the undercling traverse finishing with

Bob's Bulge

.

Consensus

from 8a.nu seems to be soft 10.

The historic start per

Flagstaff bouldering guide

is:  left hand in the pocket above your head and right hand in the sidepull (slightly underclingy) pocket slightly down and to the right.

Perhaps the better start is to begin @ the

Cloud Shadow Traverse

rail.

Beta:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3lNPSYaSyM

.

This is a fun yet highly contrived line and is a little scary at the end.  Begin at consideration, and move down to a pod three feet off the ground, from here move under a bulge into two vertically oriented crimps, from here bust left to a mono digit and match the right hand in a shallow two finger below it.  Move left into the crux of the normal variation without using the good hueco on Williams Pull.  From here follow the normal traverse up to the sloping ramp system, now finish on the scary v2 ramp.  This traverse is long sequential and pumpy, tweaky, and fun.

This traverse moves along the middle part of Cloud Shadow.  It starts in the small overhang with the juggy hueco and the two finger pocket.  Move right to left using holds highlighted in picture.  Long, pumpy, reachy, but really, really fun.  Crux comes in the form of a long crossover and lowering down to a slippery  rail.

Scramble up the slab to some chalked up jugs and make a few committing moves over the roof. Mantle up and over using some good smaller holds.

Although this is a contrived version of

The Consideration

, it's a fun problem and I saw someone request that it be put on here. Start with a right hand in the lower pocket where you start

The Consideration

, and make a big cross move to get the left hand up to the good crimp. Then either match and go or just throw for the slopey edge on the arete. From the arete, rock over the top with a couple easy moves on solid holds.

Begin under the right side of the overhang in the alcove, at a right-facing jug. Climb more or less straight out on a series of perfect crimps, with some super fun moves that would make this an absolute classic if it weren't for the obnoxious slab to the right. Holds in and left of the crack are off for hands, but all usable feet (excepting the slab) are fair game.

This cool problem is reachy.  It starts midway through the undercling traverse.  Start with the left hand in the obvious undercling and right hand on a bad sloper.  Throw your heel out right and start slapping up the bulge on some very difficult reachy moves.

Sit down start with a huge foot shelf on the right. Use some good right hand edges and the sloping seam for your left hand and top it out. A V4 version uses a left foot jam instead of the big foot shelf for the start.

Start on small holds on the far left side of the boulder and huck 4 feet to the lip, and then top out left. This problem is kind of a one move wonder, but the finishing moves are pretty fun as well.

Begin on the good hole on

Contemplation

, use this for your left hand and make a big move up to a good large edge.  From here, cross over with the left hand to a bad crimp, rearrange your feet, and make a committing throw out right to a good, left-trending rail.  This is a good classic problem.

Thought I'd add this problem.  It's kind of dumb, but it's something to do if you're sick of failing on the undercling traverse.  Starts with a right hand undercling, move up and left through some really small crimp sidepulls/gastons, avoiding the good hold to the right.  When you reach a good incut crimp you're pretty much done.

This is a direct start to

Bob's Bulge

beginning matched on the good undercling on the left side of

Undercling Traverse

. It adds adds a few more moves and a number grade to

Bob's Bulge

as you'll be just a bit more spent entering the crux heel hook sequence.

Start just downhill from the boulder that is typically used for

Hagan's Wall

. Choose from any one of several really bad edges and sidepulls to get off the ground and nab the pocket that you normally get with your right hand with your left. Use a small pocket just above with your right to get the big flake on

Hagan's

and finish with that route. A lower start is possible from the obvious, sharp, glued edge that will be at least V11.

This is similar to Christian Griffith's Yojimbo but uses different holds and sticks with Hagans to finish. Yojimbo seems no longer extant due to breakage.

This is a very difficult 12 move power traverse that goes straight right under the bulge at the far end of Cloud Shadow Boulder.  It is highly sequential, painful, and hard, consequentially I have never done it.

Follow the obvious crack feature splitting the overhanging wall in the alcove, starting in a big undercling at the left side of the roof. A killer heel-toe is very helpful for a couple moves, just be careful! The landing is not great. Finishing directly is tricky, it may be easier to traverse back left to top out at the corner.

This problem starts on the irregular smiley-face edge just left of

Hagan's Wall

and makes a big throw to an edge with the right hand about 3 feet up. Great holds appear just after this.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cloud Shadow