Starts about 5' right of Jack of Diamonds.  Some boulder moves to get off the ground, tough feet.  Gain the face and use small holds to get up.  Staying more left goes @ 5.9 while the middle of the face goes @ 5.10a

Queen of Diamonds

Roger's Romp

Sidewalk

Jack of Diamonds

King of Diamonds

The Nose Direct

The Open Book

The Edge

The Apex

The Nose

The Joker

Gross Misdemeanor

A steeper start leads to a crack, then to an easy slab.

Really fun for the grade! Balancey moves and jugs the whole way up. A couple of bushes growing in the crack probably increasing the challenge of placing gear. A fun warmup on TR but bring some cordelette to extend the anchor over a lip to reduce rope drag.

From below the left crack of The Apex, ascend to the base of a slab slanting up to the left. At the top of the slab, from a small ledge, continue up and to the left.

Start just left of the tree.  Couple boulder moves to get off the ground to good holds.  Move right into the crack and follow for about 10 feet.  Make a small traverse left and up to gain easier ground. Run it out to the anchors.

Start directly under the nose. Wander up to the face.  Use small holds up to the underclings on the bottom of the nose. Grab the Flake and throw a left heel hook to pull over the nose for the crux. Continue up the "bridge" of the nose to the anchors.

An easy beginning leads to a short hand crack with an airy, exposed feel, then more easy ground to anchors.

The guidebook list this route as basically starting up "The Apex" but to maximize decent climbing I tackled the route via the "Sidewalk" start, then as you pull onto the lower angle slab finish of sidewalk climb straight up the left side of the arête for another 20 ft of thin face holds and using the arête itself. Soon you will be pulling the smooth block holds the guide describes at the finish.

Climb the broken rock at the base, and choose either the left or right side of the V crack. After the two cracks merge, continue up the short crack/chimney to an old stump. Walk across the top ledge to a set of bolts.

Climb the Joker until you are level with the bottom of the nose.  Traverse left to side of the nose, step across (crux) and ascend the open book.  Easier terrain takes you past multiple sets of bolted anchors at the cliff top.  Steep and exposed with decent pro on lead.

Good lead for beginner trad climbers.  Climb up easy rock to a large notch. Continue up a crack of fractured rock into the an open V book.  Gain the top and walk to the anchors.

Start on the face right under the tree (avoiding the crack on the left to make it more challenging).  Crux comes in the last third, on a nice pumpy slab with some fun moves.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (c) Summit Wall