The first pitch is the crux with hard thin slab climbing.

Black Madonna

Coronet

Welcome to Shuteye Ridge

P1, 5.8

Starts with an easy crack and then head right for a balancing 5.8 slab traverse with bolt in the middle for protection. Bolted anchor at end of traverse.

I took a lead fall on the bolt and had the joy of being flipped upside down and hitting my helmet on a pendulum.

P2, 5.5

Up the face past two old bolts to setup a gear anchor in a corner roof.

P3, 5.5

Move up the corner/ roofs and then straight up to a big ledge. Gear anchor on ledge. Bolted anchors on left likely too far for 60m. Plus that rope drag.

P4, 5.7

Starts out knoby and then they disappear for a runout 5.7 slab finish a bolted anchor.

Scramble to the top and walk off NW towards Dreamscape or West down to the return trail.

Don't remember much, except old bolts and runout slab. The promised additional bolts were not in place yet. Ironic name, considering the lack of face features we all know and love on shuteye.

Technical crux is on the second pitch just after the belay and is well protected (with old bolts) IIRC. I linked 1 and 2 because the anchor bolts atop P1 were no bueno. The real business is slab climbing next to the closed shut corner above. When you can get back into the corner and some good gear, you are happy. Next 2 pitches are easier but runout.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Queen's Throne