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Chasm Approach

Where The Wild Things Are

Driving Miss Wormy

First Gear

Pigeon Nest Crack

Philly Cheesesteak

Mama Got Squeezed

Von’s Chicken Coop

Dark Matter

Jaws

Back Side Unknown 4

Momma's Got a Squeeze Box

Worm Drive

Unknown Offwidth

Back Side Unknown 2

Spider Killer

Back Side Unknown 1

Back Side Unknown 3

Unknown 5.11

Eight Ounces To Freedom

Sent For You Yesterday

Dark Energy

I'm sure this route has been done before (the official route name and FA info would be appreciated). It's a pretty fun little jaunt and not a bad warm-up if "

Driving Miss Wormy

" is occupied. Begin in a narrow, rectangular alcove to the left of the bolted slab climb

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. Climb up under the roof crack on the right side of the alcove, plug a fist-size piece at the lip then pull around said roof on good fist jams and well-defined edges for your feet. Finish by climbing the low-angled fist crack in a right-facing dihedral, and go to the anchor bolts of

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.

This is a chimney with three routes on the inside of the Manual Transmission Crag. It’s not a true climb itself but warrants its own description. I’ve approached it from the back (north) side onto the platform, then climbed up the easy wide slot (

Unkn 3

) and rappelled into the chasm from a natural gear anchor. Leaving a fixed line is prudent just in case.

It may be possible to squeeze and chimney in from the south side but with complications and unpleasantries.

From the top of the chasm, you can get off by rapping from anchors either to the N or the S.

This is a spectacular and tall boulder problem.  It starts out as very overhanging tight hands and quickly narrows to thin fingers as it rounds out a bulge, then it opens up to flared and then bomber but dirty hands as the bulge rounds over, stranding you on a shelf about twenty feet up.  Then you have to climb up some more easy but vertical terrain for about fifteen feet, popping through a hole up top to end up on top of the formation.  The last fifteen feet is strewn with good handjams and is pretty secure.  Watch out for the moss in the crack at the top of the bulge, you may want to bring out a brush on a long stick or rap down and brush this section, as the moss is thick enough to make it insecure, and you wouldn't want to fall from here.

This thing doesn't get done much, if ever.  In fact, it has probably only ever been done once.

This is a perfect beginner's hand crack just to the right of worm drive.  This crack is left leaning and utilizes the left side as a slab/ramp for feet. Begin behind the large boulder. A 'crux' move is near the top when the crack opens up to a fist jam.  The climb finishes out left to a 5.4 slab.  Belay from the worm drive anchors or behind the top of the slab- then lower off

Worm Drive

's anchors.

This route goes from fingers to hands to fists to offwidth. Start from the wind sheltered alcove to the right of

Driving Miss Wormy

and finger lock, hand jam, and chickenwing your way to the two bolt anchor.

Pigeon Nest Crack has awkward, insecure, chimney pod moves with debris to an easy right-angling hand and fist ramp. Belay on gear at the top.

It’s there, and someone had to do it.

Philly Cheesesteak is a nice, thin crack with a crux up high. It is taller than it looks in the photo.

This is an amazing squeeze chimney. Wiggle and squeeze your way to the top, and walk off. There are plenty of palm presses and leg locks. This is a true offwidth boulder problem.

This ascends a left-facing corner leaning to the left. It is mostly hands and fists with a wide pod near the top. Climb this fun crack that is mostly steep climbing on solid jams. Belay from bolts well back from the top.

This is a offwidth roof to a topout through jaws.  Start on the two deepest fist jams.  It is one of the easier offwidth roofs in Vedauwoo, and it is good practice pulling lips on some of the harder offwidths out there.

Climb a left-arching, hand & fist to OW/chimney slot. It is a bit different, although maybe not for Vedauwoo. At the top, rig an anchor with gear and/or use your body. Doesn’t that description make it a “must-do”? To get off, scramble down through a maze of slots and ramps to the North, or rap from anchor on top of the OW to East, 5.7/5.8.

This climb is found between two huge blocks to the left of Sent for You Yesterday.  It is an overhanging chimney that starts out as a stemming size and never gets small enough to use a #6 Camalot.  The chimney stops with a block on top that contains a difficult, flared, hand jam (crux) to the anchors.

This is the obvious offwidth on the south side of Worm Drive proper.  It goes up a slot for about ten feet then over a three or four foot roof, going to easier vertical terrain after that.  The name gives some hint to the beta.  This is a must do classic for anyone seeking out Vedauwoos hard offwidths.

Climb the awkward, right-leaning offwidth for approximately 20 feet. Enter a squeeze chimney pod. The crack will taper to hand/fist size. Climb through a small bulge, and then continue on easier ground for another 15 feet. A set of rappel anchors are located 15 feet to the climber's right.

This is a medium-length, left-angling, tight hand & fist semi-splitter. It is a nice, fun climb that’s awkward in spots which is part of the fun. Belay on gear at the top, 5.8/5.9.

Climb a right-slanting, sloper rail to a fun, sloper top-out.

Climb a short, vertical, wide section then a short, left-angling, hand and fist semi-splitter. Belay from bolts on the top. The anchor has chains to rap (60’ to ledge or 75’ to the bottom of the cleft).

Climb an easy, offwidth slot in corner. Scramble up easy terrain, and negotiate through a tighter section up higher.

This crack is nestled in a right-facing dihedral and begins with an offwidth pod which gradually closes down to tips. The crack then begins yawning slowly from tight hands to deep fists while the angle of the climb increases and the feet disappear. The crack closes back down once more to good hands for a few feet before opening back up to fists/off fists as the feet reappear and the angle decreases.

One of Vedauwoos hardest offwidth ticks, this is a burly bastard.

Start under the roof on hands and follow these into deepening fists, thugging your way over the wide lip and into substantially easier terrain to the top.

A short distance to the right of

Worm Drive

is this well-bolted arete.  Follow the obvious line of bolts to the anchors at the top.  This route is excellent and should not be missed.  If you take the time to walk all the way out to the Worm Drive area, make sure this route is on your tick list.

Dark Energy ascends a right-facing corner leaning to the right, sized between an OW and a squeeze. This is a fun endeavor! Try to avoid stemming at the start. Belay from a bolt anchor on top. The rating includes the endurance factor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Worm Drive