10 feet right of Mid-life Crisis is an old top-rope route. There is a nice belay pedestal around the corner from MLC. The route meanders up the formation with plenty of holds to chose from. The crux is pulling the roof. It felt like 10b the day I did it. Fun route on a cool formation.

Poker

Harlot's Slot / Pete's 5:12b

Gold Rush/High Noon

Mid-Life Crisis

Your "mid-life crisis" begins down in the Poison Oak infested gully below Pete's 5.12. Use the aid bolt on the left for decent and security. Start on a small slab reaching for a good ledge and the first bolt. An easy crank prepares you for clip two. An awkward mantle under a roof is the crux. Take your time its all balance and the holds are there. Cruise up the pinnacle to the last bolt and anchors and don't miss the views!

Start around the corner from Gold Rush on a narrow belay ledge. There are three start variations the 11a is directly up the middle of the start boulder. Stemming to the left you can bring the grade down a couple of grades. Go to the right for a 10a start.

After the first bolt you can place a small cam or nut in the horizontal crack/ledge. Mantle up on this feature to make the second clip. Stay to the left of the next two bolts while climbing on interesting sloping ledges.

Gold Rush is the easiest climb to access at GWP.  It's right next to the trail and you won't have to fight the poison oak to get there. This route features solid rock with small edges and smears.  The rock is rough and features friction like Joshua Tree.  The southwestern exposure makes this a good choice for a cool day.  You can also cruise around to the left and set up a top rope in a matter of minutes.  To top it all off, the views from here are supreme.

Description

Protection

Routes in Wild, Wild Western Pinnacles (aka Orange Rocks)