Stem and lieback up short crack/dihedral to left of off-width/chimney.  Scramble back and up over easy bulge to ledge with large boulders.  (We climbed the rotten chimney/gully above to the top as pitch 2, but it was dangerously rotten!)

(10) Stembrosia

(06) Pagoda Crack

(01) Chicken Crack

(03) Squeeze Me

(05) Stoner Crack

(07) Cody Wasn't Here

(04) Pardon Me While I Stem

(11) A Comedy of Scarers

(08) Flyboys

(09) Chimney Route

(02) Pin There, Done That?

Sweet Sarah

Why Wouldn'tya?

(12) Oh Yeah, That Snake!

Long "fun" chimney best climbed in 3 pitches. 

  1.  Short layback leads to chimney. Scramble back to base of main system.  (5.6)   2.  Up chimney, that squeezes a bit in the middle, to huge ledge.  (5.8+)   3.  Short, overhanging layback re-enters chimney.  Up to top. (5.8+) 

59m long crack with lots of fun stemming. A little grainy in parts.  Double ropes best or careful runnering of gear needed to reduce rope drag. Belay off 2 bolts on side of pagoda.    Rap route with double 60m ropes.  

At the far left end of the south face, climb the left buttress of the left (orange) pinnacle mentioned below. 

  Start at the lowest point of the buttress on easy ground, engaging left-leaning crack. Turn final small roof block on the right. Belay off 2 bolts that also act as a short rap off back. Hike down steep gully around left.  

1.  Start at the base of  Pin There in a right-diagonalling crack that joins the long straight crack. Clip a pin that protects the first small bulge and belay just above on gear on small ledge. (5.8+)  100  (Its possible to start directly at the base of the face up easy but very flaky rock.) 

  2.  Diagonal right to the wide crack on the right side of the roof. A short, well-protected squeeze chimney leads to another 50 of stemming up an off-width.  (5.9) 100   Scramble off top and hike down steep gully around left.  

Just right of the Pardon Me chimney is a bolt about 15 up.  Start in short flake down and left of bolt, traversing under bolt then up and right to hand crack.  At end of hand crack climb easy flake up to a tricky traverse back left to another crack that also diagonals up and right. (It's possible to avoid traverse by climbing straight up face with minimal pro to join the next crack higher.)  When crack ends head straight up steep face to 2 bolt belay.  140  

  Rap 30m to ground. 

1.  From an open flat spot at the base,  straight down from the left end of the huge ledge above, scramble up left thru a couple trees to the base at a short, right-facing corner with a bulge. Turn bulge then up and  right to engage the chimney. Climb chimney to the ledge and belay off tree.  5.7  140 

  2.  Shift belay about 100 to the right at the base of the chimney in the large left-facing corner.   3rd class. 

  3.  Original:Climb chimney, exiting left near top, then** stepping back right across top of chimney to belay on large ledge.  5.6 110 [**Better to continue up black crack at top of chimney in one long pitch to 2 bolt belay.  58m  Cody Direct  5.8 (J.Mw., A.S., C.J.)]

  4.  Step onto face and diagonal left to rounded buttress that is above the third pitch chimney.  Easier runout face to 2-bolt belay at top of  Cody Direct.  5.7+  140 

  Rap 58m (double ropes) from the 2-bolt belay to the huge ledge.  3rd class down then east along easy ramp to ground. 

Climb the 120 long chimney. At the top is a pointed roof block that is turned on the left.  Scramble off back and  hike up right over notch,  then back around to base.

1.  Jam crack, then stem past rotten section to base of chimney and belay off gear.  (5.10b)  We used a #6 friend to protect the rotten sectionprobably not absolutely necessary, but other gear might not be that good.  (The chimney can be climbed (5.6) as a direct ending within the  1st pitch.) 

  2.  Angle left to dihedral, up and out roof to large ledge.  2 bolts on face finish up to 2-bolt belay/rap station.  (5.9+)  If you have too much drag, you can belay on ledge and finish face as a quick 3rd pitch.  

1.  Boulder up to engage short ramp heading left. At end, wander up and right thru small cracks to bolt at small overhang. Up and right thru another small overhang with bolt to big ledge. (5.7)   2.  Diagonal up and right past 3 bolts, then up intermittent cracks to 2-bolt belay/rap station. Hidden slot for small "TCU type" piece protects final moves. 

Stem the crack, turning a small roof with big jugs. Chimney to the top, moving toward the back to belay from boulders on the top of the slope. 180     (Originally, we continued to the top of the left pinnacle, climbing the front part of the chimney, then did the short rap off the back from 2 bolts.)       Hike down steep gully around left.

1. A bolt protects the first move  which leads up to the crack that runs out the right side of the overhang above. The OW awaits at the lip of the roof. Belay at the horizontal below a short bulge with another OW.  (5.10  110')  

  2. Head up and right into main chimney. Shortly after you get wedged, traverse to the outside and clip a bolt that protects the rest of the chimney that gradually eases. The final rampy corner is a little trickier than it looks. Belay from 2 bolts at the end of the corner. (5.8+  110') 

  DESCENT: Rap 200' to the ground from the 2 bolts with double 60M ropes.  If you only take a single rope you can downclimb the 4th class gully mentioned below.

Tricky start. Step left onto face at horizontal break, about where crack starts kicking back, and continue up steepening face just left of buttress. This route shares belay/rap anchors with "Stoner Crack."

Climb crack past tree on small ledge into chimney with hidden layback crack. Up thru crack in bulge. Final section is chimney with short squeeze.  Belay on ledge at tree.  If you have 50M ropes-- plenty of spots to belay for a second pitch.

Climbs are on the South, East, and North faces.   Ridiculous in Summer. Nice Fall thru Spring.   Mostly good rock, despite the reputation.   Seldom visited. Probably will remain that way. Not the typical, well-manicured routes of Mt. Lemmon.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Stonewall (aka Airmen Peak)