70M rope required.  This route used to have a hard seam start but now after some thick vegetation died you can avoid this to the right. Above is some steep crack through the bulge above the break, a testy sequence up the orange face and an incredible finish.   Unfortunately the big ledge and the easy slab in the middle break it up a bit so it isn't sustained enough for another star.  A couple of longer quickdraws are nice to have above the crack bulge section.  Once you reach the dihedral near the top an obligatory Mr. Clean pose facing out from the wall almost guarantees the ascent.

Prymal Instinct

So Easy

Cinco De Side-pull

Appetite For Destruction

Short Stop

Gila Monster

Pre-op Therapy

Bucket List

Suicide Jack

Hard Times

Dead Man's Hand

Aces and Eights

Death From Above

The House Always Wins

Hell Freezes Over

Shell Shock

Great Northern

B-52

Cherry Popper

This route turns a roof and a bulge then continues up a gray face to a very cool dihedral.  It finishes with a great deal of air beneath your feet.  The start is stout and devious as is the second bulge.  The holds above the bulge are hard to find which which might makes this more fun to climb as a redpoint than an onsight.  It is easy to miss the jog left to the finish of this climb.  A bolt for Prymal Instinct is more obvious after you turn the bulge but staying left gives you a good finish, so I suggest staying left.

Pull up and on to the beautiful, baby's-butt like limestone to a decent jug. While the wall looks virtually blank, holds appear. The crux comes after the third bolt - from here, traverse to the left on crappy feet and small crimps; reach way out left to a sidepull and you're done with the technical crux.  

  After this low crux, the route eases off a bit for a couple bolts then becomes increasingly more inverted as you climb to a noticable cave under the roof. Climb into the cave, crack open a beer (if that's your thang), and enjoy the exposure: you'll be looking several hundred feet down into the canyon below.  

  The next crux comes as you pull the roof above the cave. After this, flow up through the fun fingerlocks while the route again becomes more overhanging to the anchors.  

  This route will definitely become one of the signature routes of the North Butt.

Not a single crimp on the climb and very few holds that are horizontal.  Two big bulges and a steep finish will keep you interested to the end.  A long series of opposition moves through the first bulge make this one of the more unique climbs at the Rough Rider.  The second bulge doesn't flow as well as the first bulge due to a tricky crux.  The second bulge has a couple of less than ideal pockets and more side-pulls.  The finish passes another much smaller but fun bulge and leads to horizontal jugs. 

  Just before the big ledge there is some funky dirty rock on the left so stay right on the gray rock.  This gray rock looks bad as well but is solid.

This route has some cool crack climbing and some wild roof climbing and it is really long.

Bouldery start leads to easy slab then goes over crux roof with fixed draws. Touch the anchors without clipping them,then jump off onto fixed draws to save rope drag.

Cool thoughtful face climbing leads to a fun section of jug hauling over a bulge/roof.  One of the first flakes you use is a little spooky sounding so the belayer should be on their toes.

The route shares the first 2 bolts of B-52 and then continues up and to the right.

Great full value line! Has all kinds of movement on it!

Cool thoughtful climbing low then moves through a bulge.  Upper face give you more to grab then you might think and the finish is fun.

Fun hard move at the start, ho hum middle and an okay upper section.

The bottom 60 feet is great with the last 30 being okay and a little sharp.  Climbing through the big tiered roof is really cool and the crux will really test you.  I predict most will find it pretty tough to onsight.   Well worth doing

I always looked at this very aesthetic line thinking it would be amazing, When I rapped down I found a handful of old 3/8 inch cobweb filled bolt holes that the Gambler might have put in. Since he wont care, I decided to bolt it up, and am really happy with how it climbs.  

  This climb shares the start with the unknown Ayers 11c, just left of short stop and gila monster. 

   One you pull the 11c opening roof, move right and up to the ledge. Continue up and right past two bolts that you should extend with runners.    Eventually you are stemming in the giant corner. Clip the bolt off to your right and transfer onto the main face of the climb. The bolt after that is a bit tricky to see, but it's next to the first huge jug on the face. Sustained 5.11 climbing follows, broken up by decent shakeouts, all the way to the tippy top of roughrider. You could even top out if you wanted.

Technical and strenuous moves up and over the initial roof leads to a much bigger roof. Rest up on the ledge, as the next section requires a series of precise gymnastics to overcome the roof. Easier climbing above leads to anchors.

This route goes on forever and you will be glad it does.  Crux will get your attention and is a bit harder than the rest of the route and the draw protecting it might be hiding something your toes are looking for.

Standard RR wall fare with a section of pockets and a lower angle face near the end.  Definitely worth doing and not a bad warmup.

Technical off the start. Leading to a small roof trending right with an awesome hold (that won't break off). To a slabby section. Then to another head wall. Last bolt makes this route spicy but is on rather chill terrain. If your a 5.10 climber the ending would seem scary. Great addition to the North Butt!

North facing = always in the shade.  Like the rest of the Rough Rider wall, this wall hosts some of the best and full pitch routes in the canyon.  A 70 meter rope may be needed for a route or two and up to twenty quick draws.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in North Buttress