With two distinct cruxes but a great rest in between, this makes for a good boulderer's route. The first crux may feel a bit hard on a hot day. Key beta for us was to hang a long sling from the 5th? bolt above the first bulge after climbing the warm-up. This allows you to clip before pulling the crux moves.

Start up the shared start with "

Funyun Warm Up

." After the 3rd bolt, break left on good underclings to a good stance below the crux. Enter the crux on slopers and sloping sidepulls (hopefully you hung a sling here), and throw to the huge jug. Recompose yourself, climb easier ground for a bolt or two, and enter the second crux. The higher clip in this crux is nice to have a double draw allowing you to clip high off good holds and skip the lower bolt. Pull a very powerful (for a low 5.12) move, and climb pumpy moves on good holds to the anchor.

Ghostryder

Mindbender

Funyun Warm Up

This aptly named route is probably the best warm-up on the wall. While it's still cleaning up a bit, after some more ascents, it should clean up nicely.

Starting up some low angle choss, watch for loose blocks, and continue up to the right-facing corner through closely spaced bolts and steep jug bashing. Above, a no hands rest helps you recover. The next draw feels a bit out of place and is difficult to hang, but it will protect the crux nicely. After getting the draw hung and clipped, climb a few feet right of the bolt, then make a big move left to a hold that isn't quite as good as you'd like, since this is the warm-up. Execute a puzzling sequence, and climb easier moves on steep ground to hero jugs and the anchors at the top of the cliff.

Start up right next to and probably using some of the same holds as "

Funyun Warm Up

"; however, lean left to clip the first bolt. Trend leftward from here pulling a dynamic, shoulder engaging crux to a huge jug, and pull the roof obtaining a nice rest. Next enter the true crux, pulling a body position crimp crux with a deadpoint to a jug. Climb several more bolts of pumpy 5.11 to the chains.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Funyun Wall