Whoa, total sandbag as 5.7 as listed in Sven's guidebook. Sven says to start the route right of the corner. Total crap idea. Start up Pearly Gate and traverse right to the corner and straight up. You can also bypass the crux of Pearly Gate by stepping back left onto the sloping ledge.

St. Peter Says "No"

St. Peter Says "YES!"

Pearly Gate

Heavenly Mist

Arm Power

Pearls Before Swine

Last Great Project?

O-Gawd! Looks straight forward, ends up tricky as hell. Mantles and stems, not to mention a half pad mono!

It's a warm up. Unnamed route #5 in Sven's guidebook.

Start behind big block. Climb to right of the corner using small jugs and small ledges. Continue to top. Variation: Traverse left 2/3's of the way up to cramped ledge. Hand jam crack to the top.

Start in a nice left-slanting crack, then up a blunt corner to the overhang. Pass the overhang directly.   This is listed as 11d in Sven's book but to get that you would have to dutifully ignore some pretty good holds.   Short crux about halfway up with gear at your feet. A short running belay will keep you off the deck.

Start a few feet right of the small dihedral capped by a small roof at about 10'.  Climb more or less straight up the slab to a stance below the obvious roof and hanging arete.  Continue straight up the arete to a mantle onto the ledge.

Starts off fun but casual. After the horizontal crack small crimps and hard lock offs lead to a mantle onto a ledge. I see the moves but couldn't pull them. A trophy to be won in a place with few trophys left.

Small crag with some pretty tall lines for this part of the cliff.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pearly Gate