This is a fun route that would deserve more stars except the lower section becomes mossy each winter and has not received a good cleaning in awhile. Pitch 1: quality friction follow bolts left to dogleg around slightly overhanging wall (5.10a). Above the slight overhang there is easier climbing to the headwall (5.9). Ascend the headwall (5.6) to a set of belay anchors (two bolts, no chains). Pitch 2: follow bolts up easier climbing to summit (5.7). Rappel off two bolts, no chains.

Cellular-Owl

Steel-toed slippers

Invisabolt

Twisted Sister

Walls of Moria

This route begins with a dirty scramble and slog at the bottom to get onto the better slab in the north saddle between Twisted Sister and a smaller pinnacle to the north (Little Sister). From the saddle scramble 5.5 slab friction to the summit of Little Sister. Other than the fact that Chandler climbed this in his steeled toed boot the route probably doesn't deserve to be mentioned.

Refer to Umpqua Guide topo T, pp. 124. P1: climb up steep slab (5.8) following bolts right to arete. Crux move (5.10b) is between third bolt and the shadowy overhang. In the right lighting the bolt in the shadows can be hard to see unless you are looking for it. From this clip traverse left under the overhang, then follow bolts to the arete above overhang. P2: follow arete to summit (5.7). Rappel from top anchors, no chains.  

The easiest way to access routes on the North side of Twisted Sister is to rappel in from the top. Follow the right (looking down) boltline back to the summit. This aspect holds moss and requires annual maintenance. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon Vol. 2: Umpqua map 6 page 123.

From the summit of Twisted Sister formation rappel off north side using the left set of anchors (looking down). Toprope or lead the bolt line back to the same set of anchors ontop. Route holds moss and requires annual maintenance. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon Vol. 2: Umpqua map 6 and GPS coordinates in UTM's page 123.

There are 5 establish routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.10b and 100 to 120 feet. Twisted Sister has seen little use since there has been restricted access into the area. The only route that has receive enough recent use to keep the moss off is Invisabolt (5.10b). For descriptions on the other routes refer to pages 123-125 of the Umpqua Guide (ed. Orton, 2007).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Twisted Sister Formation