Have you ever noticed that the more over-rated a route is the more people like it?  If this route was rated 11b, it would be 1 star.  Or a 2 star 11c.  or a 3 star 11d.  But when graded 12a, it is most definitely 4 star classic and one of the best routes you ever done.  Or not.

Climbs past thin moves and edges on white rock.

Except for the very start which is in a shadow, this route gets lots of morning sun and is good for spring, fall, and cool mornings.

Note:  If you have a 3rd, its easy to take great pictures from atop the big boulder behind the route.

4 Star 12a

Radioactive

Den Mother

Pringles

Centrifuge

Lombard Street

Not as Beefy as Your Bolts

Lucy's Perch

Opening Day

Whoa Many So Manys

Clippy Clip

Toscano

Starts in a small corner with a bolt on the right side of the wall, then steps left and onto the upper face.  Crux is in the upper section below the chains.  Nicknamed after the zig zagging trail which resembles Lombard Street.

Even though the middle is a bit easy, this is a worthy route with a very cool start and a finish that keeps your attention. Should be a crowd pleaser.  Named after first ascentionist Joi "Radio" who actively broadcasts allllll day long.  Stick clip.  Gets sun and is good for spring, fall, and cool mornings.

Its a little sugary at the first bolt, but leads to some really fun deep pockets and interesting edges on the upper sections.  There is a distinct crux in the sandstone bulge at mid height.  The best and most solid holds to start are ticked and slightly right as you approach the 1st bolt, then angling left as you pass bolts 2 and 3. Afternoon sun.  This route lowers from chains about 1/2 way up the wall.

A centrifuge can be used for separating things.  This route will surely separate the beginner from the crusher.  Climb through the low bulge and past the crux at the 2nd bolt.  At first, it wasn't clear we could find a solid sequence of crimps that would get us through the opening crux bulge.  A "soaptone" cobble (you'll know it when you grab it), a small dimple, and a matrix mono were found to make a nice sequence.  Hopefully folks won't twist their feet and destroy the crux crimp.  If you are strong on small holds, you might find the grade soft.  For the rest of us, its challenging.   Gets sun and is good for spring, fall, and cool mornings.

Easy jug hauling. Climb 3 bolts to the summit ridge, then clip a bolt and traverse right to the chains.

Yes, its a bit easy.  Yes, its juggy.  But even easy juggy routes can be amazing and Lucy's Perch is worthy of many stars!  15 bolts of fun holds and great exposure.  The start is a little steeper and great holds abound.  The middle has cool positioning up what feels like an arete. The finish is just plain fun scrambling.  Be sure to soak in the fantastic views from the anchors.

This route is tall... a 70m with stretch might not get you completely to the ground depending on how long your 70m is.  If your rope isn't long enough, you can easily lower to the anchors of the route to the right (at 2/3 height), then do a 2nd lower the remaining 80' while still swinging over to clean the draws. You can also lower directly down to the anchors on Toscano (the route to the left) and then do a second lower (but you can't clean the draws on Lucy from the Toscano anchors). If you want to toprope and you have a shorter rope, treat it like a multipitch and belay from above.

Gets sun and is good for spring, fall, and cool mornings.

It seems like all through the spring the weather is PERFECT for Maple climbing and we have the place all to ourselves.  Then BOOM, its May 1st and like magic the campground is full and all the crowds arrive.   Thus the name, Opening Day.

Steep and tricky sequences past 5 bolts to chains.  A bit short, but this route packs it in.  We debated an 11d rating.  What do you think?

Sometimes just getting off the ground and enjoying the moment and scenery is more fun than grinding away on your project.  This route might just remind you why you started climbing.   Whoa Many So Manys is big holds and big fun.  9 bolts get you up there for the views.  80'.

Gets sun and is good for spring, fall, and cool mornings.

Big jugs up a less than vertical face. A little more airy than you might expect.

Climbs the south facing white streak just left of the crack in the wall.  Lowers from chains just over the tricky bulge.  We graded it as if there was no stemming on the right wall, but we never could agree on what to grade it. So for now, 10c it is!  Named after the color of stone but also after an exhausting week of landscaping a yard with home depot's "toscano" landscaping blocks.  Never again.

Gets morning and mid-day sun and is good for spring, fall, and cool mornings.  Late afternoon shade.

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Location

Protection

Routes in Cragganzenden