Go up a dirty ramp, step left to an overhang, stem right to clip a bolt, and do moderate stem to gain a small ledge clipping a second bolt. Clipping the third bolt is the crux. So using a sport QD, you may be able to clip from the ledge, otherwise you'll need to smear while making this exciting clip, but there is a bolt just below you so it's pretty safe.

Continue up cracks and seams to the top. At the top, find a two bolt rap anchor. We added sling-age and a rap carabiner on Feb. 29, 2020

From the base of the climb, the headwall will appear foreshortened. Don't be fooled, you will need plenty of protection past the third bold. I probably placed 8 pieces above the bolts.

Bullshit Detector

Central West Face

North Arete

Unknown

Climb up a ramp on the right side to the overhang, traverse to gain the top of then overhang, then move up, following thin crack in middle of face. Above upper ledge the climbing does not back off.

Climb an arete. At a dihedral, keep your hands low and feet high before reaching up. The guidebook says 10b but maybe not. Above the dihedral, stay left for easier climbing to the top. Diagonaling right are small edges, and the climbing is more difficult.

Currently this is a TR. Follow bolts (without hangers) starting on the left side. The first moves feel like 9+. Move up using the left arete then right and up on small tweakers to reach first ledge. Locate next bolt near center, and continue up to small ledge. The next moves are very thin high step 11- if you stay on face, otherwise step right around corner for 10 climbing, then continue moving back left to the second ledge.

Climb up a third tier starting in the middle trending right after 15-20 feet to an arete then to the top. When climbing on third tier, your belayer will typically not be able to see you and may believe you're at the top. You may want to remind them how much climbing is left.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bullshit Rock