Follow the crack system that cuts right and then tightens towards the top, becoming a nice handcrack.

Deeds of Darkness

Pebbles and Bam Bam

Slab Happy

Pipe Dreams

Seem to Seam

Super Conductor

Exit the Womb

Bat Face

After climbing

Super Conductor

, throw the rope over the right side of the arete and toprope this face.  This is not nearly as fun--some of the holds are crumbly and there's tons of lichen on this side. Also, a tree has grown into the route so you have to negotiate this as well.

This route goes up a South-facing buttress to the immediate West of the Juggernaut area.  It goes up the upper tier so get on top of the lower tier by a down/up climb near the power line.  Follow the ledge around some boulders and find the route just past these boulders.  The crux is found at the first, bouldery move.  Establish yourself on the route and follow the face past the two cold shuts to the two cold shuts near the top.

This is on the lower tier of the far left side of the Juggernaut area, located just around the corner (if approaching from Bat Face) just left of an arete, about in line with the "pointy" pine tree on the left side of the photo below.  Ascend slightly overhanging rock past three bolts to the top of the lower tier.  I couldn't find an anchor on the top after a very brief inspection, and so I lowered off the third bolt.  YMMV.

This seemed pretty hard for a 5.10, albeit for only two moves.  Then again, I'm pretty weak.  The crux is clipping the second bolt while hanging off a "the clock is ticking" rounded cobble.  It is easier from the second bolt to the top.

On the same piece of rock as

Bat Face

(below the powerlines), just a few feet left and around the corner, is this fun and powerful, south-facing route.  Start on top of the boulder, where you can clip the first bolt, then literally jump to the two slopey start holds.  Crank through the sweet, technical, powerful moves to a decent rest in the middle of the route.  Avoid using the arete to the far right of the bolts.  Finish up with another steep section of rock.

The route is extremely well protected.  If you want to toprope the route, the anchors are easily accessed via the north rim of the canyon.  Walk east (climber's right) 50-75 yards to access the rim via easy 5th class rock, or go west (climber's left) a short distance and scramble to the top.

In the picture below, Seem to Seam is on the most obvious orange face of rock.

This route starts just right of

Bat Face

, which is almost directly under the powerlines. Although it's a short, somewhat eliminate route, the moves are interesting and fun. Start in the left-facing corner, and make some stemming moves to get up to the next tier, but the ledge on your left is off. Pull on some big pockets at this bulge, and continue up the left face/arete past the two bolts.

Cimb into a round, guano-filled pod and exit via the offwidth above.

This is a very nice line on the main, East-facing wall. There are a good variety of climbing - pockets, cobbles, and edges to get you up this fun route. It is a good one to warm-up upon.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Juggernaut Area