AKA: Satyr Ridge, the Ruckman guide says this is 1800 feet, but really, from car to summit it is well over 3000.

Typical alpine granite (good to crappy) with a (relatively) easy approach.  Lots of hiking, though.

Although there are lots of easy sections that you could either simul or solo, the technical sections appear often enough that it probably isn't worth it.  We seemed to find a 40m 5.8 pitch just about every 50m or so (alternates 5.easy, 5.8, ...).  These were almost always very exposed.

The (small amount of) beta that I heard before we did this climb was, "it is loose and scary, and I won't ever do it again."  We didn't find it all that bad.  We didn't complete the route, however; we were stormed off at about 700 feet from the summit (long descent involving many rappels).

Perla's Ridge

Stump the Stars

Ridge of Bliss

Despite it being short with slightly dirty rock, I believe this has got to be one of the most fun crack climbs around. Though, to be sure, I haven't done that many of the local crack climbs harder than 11a.  If more people climbed it, the rock would clean up.

Originally, I thought this was stout for the grade. But, rethinking it, the rating probably is spot on compared to routes like Coyne Crack and S-Crack's third pitch crack.  The difference, which is what makes this route awesome, is that it is more sequential than the aforementioned; it is not just a "plug and chug", "grin and bear it" crack.

From the base, start up the right crack - tips and few fingers on a slightly less-than-vertical wall.  About 20 feet up, make the transition into the left crack and climb more tips/tight fingers to overhanging wall, pull 10 foot overhanging wall via thin hands, and continue to bolted anchors.

P1: Start in a left-facing corner [one bolt]. Continue up easy (runout) slab to bushy ramp.  Climb the roof above to chains. 120'

P2: Easy right-facing corner and over roof.  Step right onto slab [fixed KB] climbing technical terrain past two additional bolts.  Continue up corner to roof.  Step left onto slab [three bolts] to reach rap rings. 160'+/-

P3: Climb corner above anchors passing three bolts.  Excellent climbing. 160'. This pitch was originally led without bolts!

P4: Follow easy slab to two-bolt anchor below roof.  No pro. 60'

P5: "Puke Pitch". Step right to main left-facing/angled corner.  Climb up the corner (thin pro) past two pins.   Step left into next corner (very exposed) and climb handcrack to two-bolt belay on ledge in chimney.  200'

P6: Climb left side of chimney until it is possible to step across to the right. Loose chockstones--Beware!  Climb to right of tree through brushy area and onto slab.  Pass three bolts before heading back into brush for tree belay.

P7: Climb slab left of bushy corner.  After second bolt work right to roof and finger crack.  Mantle to 4:20 ledge for tree slings. 100'

P8: "The Tower of Bliss". Diagonal right past three bolts to groove/crack on right side of tower.  Rap station in trees. 120'

This route was established ground up.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Perla's Ridge and Environs