Start up a thin vertical crack system (optional gear placements), then climb straight up through an overhanging bulge on big holds. Continue up a slab (more optional gear placements) to an anchor set in the overhang at the top of the cliff. Probably the best route on the Guide's Wall.

The Million Muppet March

Firecracker

The Real Folk Blues

Mos Eisley

Tin Man

Alpine Spring

Treasure Island

The Kuller

Common Ground

Scarecrow

Madam Butterfly

Beautiful Garbage

The Crozier

Jerry's Corner

Cowboy Bebop

Sparkler

Move up the short right-leaning crack, then step left onto the face of the buttress and follow a wandering line of least resistance up to a very puzzling steep exit on the left. The anchor is a few feet up and right on a slab. "A wretched hive of scum and villainy," according to Obi-Wan Kenobi, but the quality of the climbing is much better than the appearance would suggest.

Straight up the crack system to an anchor.

Pull up through the overhanging start on good holds. At the second bolt, undercling and jam up and right, following the obvious flake, to an anchor.

Step up a short outside corner (crux, easily avoided by stepping in from the right) to a short left-facing corner below an overhang. Follow the left of two parallel cracks up to the grassy ledge and an anchor (shared with Scarecrow, the right crack).

Climb a short slab to a ledge (same start as Beautiful Garbage). Continue straight up the face, finishing up the steep right-facing corner with an overhang at the top to an anchor (shared with Beautiful Garbage).

Follow the featured, left-facing corner up past several ledges to an anchor. This is an enjoyable easy lead with good protection.

This is a very good route, similar to Million Muppet March but on mostly trad gear. It was named in memory of the late Jeff Kuller, longtime director of parks and recreation for the Town of Camden.  

  Follow a short crack system up through overhanging rock past a horizontal, then continue straight up the slab above, passing a bolt, to an anchor.

Step up onto very featured horizontal ledges, then climb more or less straight up the steep wall on good holds. At the top, step right to the anchor (shared with Madam Butterfly).

Follow the crack to the grassy ledge and an anchor (shared with Tin Man, the left crack). An easy, well-protected lead.

Climb the shallow right-facing corner, then pull over onto the face on the left above an overhang and continue to the anchor (shared with Common Ground). A committing lead.

Climb up a short slab to a small ledge (same start as Alpine Spring). Follow the steep crack on the left through the overhang above, then step right past a small tree to an anchor shared with Alpine Spring.

Starting on the right, pull up onto the slab and mantel onto a ledge. Climb up past the horizontal onto a steep headwall, and follow good holds straight up to the anchor.

Pull up into the steep left-facing corner and layback to a small overhang, then step right and reach a pocket on the right face. Climb up past a wide horizontal onto an awkward ramp below a large overhang. Pull through the big overhang to an anchor.

Pull up through the steep starting section on good rock. At the second bolt, step left onto a sloping ledge, another bolt, and a short vertical crack. The smooth headwall above, passing a horizontal crack, is the crux; mantel onto a nice ledge with an anchor.

Follow the right-leaning crack, then step right to an anchor (shared with Firecracker). Awkward, reachy, and hard to protect well. The obvious flake lodged in the crack wiggles but doesn't seem to want to come out.

Guide's Wall has short (30-60'), mostly moderate routes on sometimes fragile schist. It is southeast facing and shaded by trees, so it's often best in the fall after the leaves are down. It dries slowly. Because it is not yet included in the guidebook, it gets little traffic. All routes have bolted belay/rappel anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 09. Guide's Wall