Pitch 1 (5.10b):

Climb to ledge, then pull roof (crux) above ledge. Follow bolt line to reach a fingertip crack with thrilling exposure (second crux), then on to a good belay station.

Pitch 2 (5.10a):

Second pitch gets easier as you go, especially as route ascends a few ledges near the top. Route finishes at a belay station at the canyon rim, allowing climbers to walk off at this point.

Note:

70 m rope needed if rappelling or top-roping either pitch of this route.

Shitty Kitty Litter Glitter

Unicorn Glue Factory

Vomito de Gatito

Forest Fire Picnic

Leukemia for Lollipops

Chestnuts Roasting on a Dumpster Fire

Bulging Bedbug Bank

Presidential Pussygrabber

Look for jumbled boulders at base of climb. Technical, cruxy start, then traverse to more blocky features before finishing up on a nice crack.

Starts just to the right of the undercut arete. Technical, thin moves around 2nd bolt, then work your way up one side of the arete to the other.

Head up broad corner left of bolt line (next to red streak), moving right after second bolt to small ledges. Head straight up cream colored face into mini dihedral and red rock, following bolt line. Crux is around fifth bolt.

Crux is near fourth bolt as you transition onto dark face.

Tricky technical start leads to even trickier crux move near sixth bolt as you move onto arete.

Blocky start up broken, but solid rock just left of sheer red face. Fun finish on short, upper face.

A beautiful finger crack start ends just as it gets good, leading to the "Idaho flake" and the crux move just above. Ledge to right is off route.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Tragic Alley