The middle of the 3 routes on the "Chanel 6 News Tower" the semi-independent tower immediately down-canyon from the main wall. Starts with 2 bolts worth of 5.7/8 climbing on edges to a huge rest jug. Then it climbs 3 bolts worth of overhanging rock on crimps, edges, pockets, sloping ledges, sidepulls and jugs. Fun and entertaining climbing. Short but physical. Still somewhat sharp too so bring your skin.

April O'Neil

Michelangelo

Krang

Rocksteady

Mr. Thompson

Bebop

Shredder

Foot Clan Crack

Leonardo

Hamato Yoshi

Irma

Master Splinter

The Technodrome

Donatello

Raphael

The left of the 3 routes on the "Chanel 6 News Tower" the semi-independent tower immediately down-canyon from the main wall. Start all the way around the left corner, traverse rightward and up on a hand rail, grovel past the 2ed bolt, then weave back and forth as you make your way up. Finishing using the right side of the final headwall is easier than the left.

Climb the "Turtle Shell" face under the left arching crack. Traverse right a few feet to gain the crack as it starts to arch to the left. Climb crack until it becomes horizontal then turn small roof. Continue climbing up thin face above to chains.

Start on smooth face below small roof. Turn roof and then traverse slightly left on small edges. Climb up on edges to blocky angular features and a big quartz crystal then up on big juggy edges and slopers to the chains.

Climb face using positive crimp edges and small ledges, trend leftward following bolts and crystal filled shallow crack, climb through slight bulge and back rightward and up the final vertical section to chains shared with "Bebop".

Down canyon from the main wall is a semi-independent tower called the "Chanel 6 News Tower" Mr Thompson ascends the right side of the tower starting between the tower and the main wall. It is mostly 5.4-5.5 less than vertical climbing with a single 5.6 crux move over a vertical/slightly overhanging bulge using a crimp and a waist-high high-step. this would be a good 1st lead for someone. It also provides access to the other 2 sets of anchors on the tower if you want to work those on top rope.

Climb face then trend right into groove before trending left to the chains.

Climb the flaring crack system to the right of Bebop's bolts. Requires about 5-6 cam placements. Near the top, traverse left to reach anchor. Shares chain anchor with Bebop. A decent warm up for the other trad climbs at this crag.

Climb blocky face to the left of "Shredder" crack trending rightward. Cross "Shredder" crack and traverse a few feet right to a smaller crack then over final bulge to chains.

Climb the obvious left arching crack until it becomes horizontal, then turn the roof in the same place that "Michelangelo" turns it. Continue up and left following the diagonal crack to the anchors of "Raphael".

Climb the obvious left arching crack all the way across until it ends, then turn the roof and follow the left angling seam/crack to the anchors of "Leonardo"

Climb smooth face/blunt arete on left side of the cliff. Climb past/over small roof to strenuous slightly overhanging section on side pulls to easier climbing above.

Clip first bolt by stemming canyon. Step back down to small ledge between the top terrace with "Bebop" and "Rocksteady" and the main terrace. Lieback up crack until the crack starts arching left. Clip 2ed bolt and trend right through crux following bolts via positive crimper rails. Climb up to and follow shallow left leaning crystal filled crack. Then climb up and right on jug and big slopers to a final small roof protecting the chains.

Climb left side of the "Turtle Shell" face under the left arching crack using good but far apart edges and barely there crimps. A funky move gains you the crack then turn the left side of the roof. Thin climbing on tiny crimps get you to the final jugs and the chains.

North facing cliff up the South hillside of the hairpin turn canyon. The cliff is the South (left) side of a narrow (4-12' wide) canyon that can be seen from the hairpin turn parking pullout. Because the canyon is so narrow boulders have gotten wedged in the canyon and sand and rock have filled in the up canyon side of them creating several flat terraces to belay from. 

  All the hardware has been camouflaged to match to rock color.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle Crag