Indian Creek at the Tree!!!  The routes at Rusty Wall are fairly unusual by J-Tree standards:  steep straight-in jamming more reminiscent of the Utah Desert that your typical quartz monzonite crag.  You have O'Kelleys on the right side which tackles a desperate boulder problem to beautiful hands.  To the left is O'Kelley's shorter but more demanding brother, Wangerbanger.  Wangerbanger is fairly straight-forward by 5.11 J-Tree standards... no dicking with funky RPs, just plugging cams and climbing.  As a result many people generally consider this fairly soft for 11c, though the percentage of leaders that end up dangling at the crux, just below the pod, is probably just as high as any other similarly graded climb.

So, anyway: The climb is short, but pithy.  The crack begins as wide hands but thins to ring-locks just below the pod.  Crank into the pod and cop a decent rest.  The crux will be somewhere just below the pod depending on your hand size, though getting into the pod is also burly as hell.  Continue upward through the pod system (harder than it looks!) to a funky mantle at the top.

Wangerbanger

Finish What You Started

Slapshot

Riddles in the Dark (aka Ok Crank)

O'Kelley's Crack

Cameltoe Crack

This route is on the far left side of the wall, left of

Wangerbanger

. Climb the face up and left to the arete past 3 bolts. A thin nut is useful above the last bolt. The crux (at the second bolt) involves a tricky sequence on square-cut edges to a big dyno.

On the right side of the wall, (right of O'Kelley's Crack) climb a steep flake, then power up a slightly overhanging face up and right past 3 bolts.

Lieback the flake to it's end, clip a bolt and make some crimpy moves (crux) reaching for a hand jam under a tooth of rock below a jagged roof. Work right along the roof (strenuous to place gear) and then make some finishing face moves to top out just left of Finish What You Started. Descend by walking off.

Originally done with two bolts, which were placed on rappel, this now sports a single bolt making it a bit more necky. Three stars out of five.

A gnarly 5.11 boulder problem start (cupped hands or fists and awkward tight fingers, can be aided) leads to stellar 5.10 hands up a gorgeous vertical wall. This route is as good as the best desert splitters and is on some of the best rock in jtree. In my opinion, the best route in the park by a signifigant margin and one of the best routes anywhere.

Bang you wang quicker than you would have liked to? Don't worry, and look no further than 30 feet to your right. Where a beautiful camel toe can be spotted ready for easy fisting, before you pull out completely. Good as an aphrodisiac before the big O or even a relaxing cool down to appease the gods for the five minutes you lasted banging your wang, either way, enjoy.

Description

Protection

Routes in Rusty Wall