Big Ellie's Little Crack is a short splitter.

Big Ellie's Little Crack

Slap or Die

Trailside Traverse

Uptown Girl

[Redacted]

Offset Crack

Protection Eliminate

Honey Bunches of Oats

Everything Gneiss

Stay Golden Pony Boy

Pack Rat

Seams Thin

Slabs Direct

Pine Tree Eliminate

Feeding The Rat

Flaked Out

One Rat Too Many

Rat Rod

Mud Bath

Hand Crack

F**king Catalina Wine Mixer

Rain Delay

Drowned Rat

Tetherly

Dragon

Kung Fu

Night Hawk

The Gilded Lady

Start on the far right side of the south face of the trailside boulder. Sit start on the corner on two sidepulls. Work up to good holds on the bulge and work up the arete and top out.

The Trailside Traverse is on a large boulder along the hike up to Prestige Worldwide Wall. Traverse the boulder from left to right on a seam with good crimps for the hands. Top out over the prow when the traverse ends.

Start the in the same spot as the Trailside Traverse on the right edge of the west face. Climb straight up over the bulge using nice feet and crimps.

Climb the obvious corner using cracks, pods, and jugs past 4 bolts and gain a ledge. The climb has enjoyable movement, and it's fairly sustained to the ledge. Clip a bolt and make some thought provoking moves off the ledge to the anchor. The climb is more overhanging than it looks!

Begin between two large detached flakes on the ground, move up through easy terrain to a band of crumbly rock. From here, work your feet up to reach the thin, vertical crack. This crack ends after 4 feet or so when you step right on thin holds (crux) to another thin crack. Follow this crack through the notch at the top directly above the start.

This route is a semi-fun toprope that is fun to do after doing other routes in the area. The crux is getting over the first overhang, on the left side, near the bottom. There is no pro here, so the route is best to top rope. The second overhang goes on its right side using the arête as a layback hold. A small cam can be placed here if you are crazy enough to try a lead. Both overhangs involve a high step to surmount. The rest of the route is fairly easy and will take protection. However, I would toprope the route.

This route is an easy dihedral with a large starting crack thinning out towards the top. End in a horizontal crack to the right of the

Pine Tree Eliminate

.

Everything Gneiss is an amazing problem on good rock! Start on an obvious jug rail in center of the boulder, and trend up and left following a seam that gets progressively better. There is an easy topout.

Sit start in the middle of the

Trailside Traverse

and work straight up on a few tenuous moves to a long, balancy reach gaining a positive hold before the top.  Stay fresh...stay golden....

This line came from trying to match a word description to the terrain at this crag.  Unfortunately or fortunately, photos are more descriptive.

To the right of

Flaked Out

, move up to flakes, angle right to a dihedral, near a tiny roof, protect in the dihedral, move right onto an arete.  Cross the slab to the anchors of

Tetherly

.

If one were of the inclination, one could clean out the rest of the dihedral and finish up it.

Rap off the 2 bolt anchor.

The length of the route is listed as longer, since using a 100' rope will not allow you to belay your second from the ground.

Follow the thin seam on the left side of the wall. When the seam ends step left and follow a flake to the ledge. Move right to the anchor.

Eds. The length of the route is listed as longer, since using a the 2 anchor bolts and a 100' rope will not allow you to belay your second from the ground.  It was originally listed as a 30' route.

Climb up the nose of the slab. Ascend the slab up the center of the wall past flakes at mid-height. Continue up the bulge to a ledge and an anchor.

Eds. The length of the route is listed as longer, since using a the 2 anchor bolts and a 100' rope will not allow you to belay your second from the ground.  It was originally listed as a 30' route.

This is a short crack line up the slab. It is a good route for the beginner trad climber.

Climb the crack with a pine tree near the top. Top out and walk left to an anchor.

Eds. The length of the route is listed as longer, since using a the 2 anchor bolts up and left and a 100' rope will not allow you to belay your second from the ground.  It was originally listed as a 30' route.

This is a difficult-to-set-up toprope problem that has 2 interesting parts and might be led at a R rating.

There are 2 possible starts.  The left start above a bush is a bit reachy for the height-challenged.  The right start is noticeably easier.  Continue up moderate terrain to the upper double crack system.  Start in the left crack and move up and right into the other crack. Unfortunately, the topout doesn't have much for an anchor.

Maybe we could put in a bolted anchor if folks actually found this interesting.

Climb up the slab to a small roof. Traverse right to the arete and follow up to a flake. Finish at the pine tree.

Eds. The length of the route is listed as longer, since using a the 2 anchor bolts up and left and a 100' rope will not allow you to belay your second from the ground.  It was originally listed as a 30' route.

This ascends the bushy crack to the offwidth finish left of

Seams Thin

and right of

Feeding the Rat

.

Start up an easy crack system passing 3 bushes.  Continue up to the offwidth.  There are still some loosish chockstones in the offwidth that refused to comeout on lead.  A #4 Camalot fits just before the crux.  A #5 Camalot (old style) would have been nice for the double Gaston offwidth finish.  There really is no ideal anchor up above.  You can get a decent threaded sling below a boulder.

Walk off left or traverse 4th class to the 2 bolt anchor to the right.

Most folks won't find this terribly appetizing.

Also, there is a left finish for the last 10 feet or so that is probably 9+.  It may need a brushing.

Climb discontinuous cracks and flakes left of

Pine Tree Eliminate

. Top out on a short crack on top to a ledge with an anchor.

Eds. The length of the route is listed as longer, since using a the 2 anchor bolts up and left and a 100' rope will not allow you to belay your second from the ground.  It was originally listed as a 30' route.

Climb the right-angling crack to the right of

Bolts and Hoes

.  It is harder and dirtier than it looks.  It is fun if you like that sort of thing.  We managed to get to the bolts for the sport routes on the left, not very fun.  If anyone ever climbs this again, you might think about setting a belay at the tree and walking off.

Like most climbs at this cliff, it's about 20-25 feet of real climbing followed by 20-25 feet of walking to a tree anchor. At least you can get consecutive jams in on this one - and they're bomber! This is a good route to do if you're looking to jam and too scared to hop on

Mud Bath

. It is a good lead for the burgeoning trad leader looking for something more vertical in the area - you could throw cams at this crack, and they'd stay in.

Climb up the first three bolts of

The Gilded Lady

cranking out the overhang on big holds. Make the crux throw to the third bolt, and then escape left out onto the face. Clip a bolt and slab up to the ledge with a chain anchor.

This is another little line on the left side of this crag.  On the 3rd trip, after getting rained off a time or two, this line finally got a human ascent.  It turns out to be a bit more interesting than you'd expect from below.

Start up a crack ~10 feet left of a left-facing dihedral.  Be gentle with some hollow-ish flakes low.  Traverse right on a ledge.  Gain the dihedral and make some more-delicate moves upward.  You can girth hitch some boulder constrictions for an anchor.

This probably needs a good downpour or more scrubbing to get it fully clean.

Walk off to the left.

This is the result of trying to figure out what the routes here were without photos.  Oh for an MP app.

This ascends an obvious line on the short buttress to the left of

Seams Thin

.  It starts in a left-facing dihedral.  When wet, the move right can feel tricky.  Move up to the minor bulge, which again feels tricky when wet.  High step up and top out on broken terrain.

Walk off to the left.

You can do a linkup with

Rain Delay

for a 5.7 lead or TR.  FA: Jay Eggleston.

This is located left around the corner from the steep wall. Scramble up tiers of rock to a small, right-facing corner (gear) on the bulge. Follow the corner and slab past two bolts to an anchor on a ledge.

Eds. The length of the route is listed as longer, since using a 100' rope will not allow you to belay your second from the ground.  It was originally entered as a 40' route.

This highball is located just east of the Trailside Boulder. Climb up and easy face to a left-facing flake. Pull up over the bulge making an airy move. Continue straight up the face on good holds to the top.

Start on the vertical face on two good sidepulls. Make a large move out right to a rail. Match the rail and continue to the top on big holds.

Sit start and climb out right on good holds in the crack. Pull over the overhang to bigger holds and continue to the top.

The Gilded Lady, she lives!!! This overhanging classic is located just left of

Bolts and Hoes

. Climb jugs through bolt two, and then make a few long moves, followed by a large throw, and clip bolt three. Cop out left for a quick rest or continue firing up the overhang through the crux and make a photo finish throw to the lip. It's not over until you're on the ledge!!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Prestige Worldwide Wall