At the base of Crack of Noon Buttress lies a huge boulder, which is split by a prominent crack.  The crux is surmounting the small lip/roof, which is sparsely protected (small nut/brass)  Above is a fine crack (thin to large).  Set your own anchor/belay.

Em Ion

Everything is Karate

OW - That Bites

Heady Noon

Crack of Noon

Come Around Sundown

Rewritten

Short but Stout

Ripples Revisited

What Horn

High Noon

Stand Up and Deliver

There are two possible starts on this route.  Traverse diagonally right and slightly up from the start of 'Rewritten' or climb straight up on easy 5th class from below the start of 'Rewritten.'  It is a good 20'+ to the first bolt.

At the first bolt (added after the FA) climb up on good holds, then step out left (around the corner) at the second bolt.  Move up from there on easy terrain to a slab and slightly right to the 3rd bolt.  Surmount the short headwall (5.7/5.8) just right of the 4th bolt.  This is a bit height dependent (easier for med./taller climbers), the hidden bucket just right of the bolt helps, as do mantle skills.  Continue up past another bolt and a horizontal crack (small/medium cam), on to a shallow corner (bolt) and the last moves (5.9) directly up a small trough past the final bolt.  It is possible to completely avoid this crux move by going to an easy crack to the left (although this is less fun/aesthetic).

One of the hardest routes in Cali. But also quite amazing and sustained for the grade. The climb is an overhanging bullet granite seam that climbs more like buttermilks bouldering than crack climbing. What is so interesting about it is the sustained hard nature of the route. There's no one move wonder. It's just a lot of hard moves and just steep enough to keep it sustained hard the whole way. Originally bolted by Patrick O'Donnell in 2012. FFA Ethan Pringle in late 2016.

Start in a shallow, right facing crack/corner a few feet up the hill to the right of 'Crack of Noon.' Continue up and trending right past an undercling on big holds to a bolt. Pass a large hole, clip another bolt, and mantle on a prominent shelf. Move left for a foot or two (don't go to far left, that would be 'What Horn') then surmount the lip and continue up past three bolts to 'the horn' and mussy hook anchors.

A fun route and just a tad harder than 'What Horn.'

Start on first 4 bolts of "High Noon" but go right at a nice steep roof. Place anywhere from green BD to yellow alien at the roof. Do a cruxy layback over the roof and place a small piece of gear in a nice crack placement. Stand up over the roof and finish the climb on nice 5.10 crack to the top with various good gear placements.

This is the prominent, straight crack line on the left side of the buttress.  Start on talus/dirt around the corner to the left and a few feet up the hill, traverse right into the thin crack/seam on big holds, then continue up.  In a few sections it is easier to face climb to the left.

This is a fine route, but requires solid nut skills and has ugly decking potential (PG-13/R).

The upper third of the climb has two variations to the left.

Same start as "Short but Stout" but head straight up through a desperate overhanging crack type feature.

This is the prominent right facing dihedral in the center/right of the buttress.  Climb up a slab past two bolts, then work up the dihedral past two more bolts to crack and lieback features.  Finish just above a huge (somewhat precarious) block and mussy hook anchors.

The crux is around the 4th bolt.  It is possible to stem the dihedral or paste feet in the corner.

Rumor has it that an old piton was found on the 'FA' thus 'Rewritten.'

Shares the same anchor and last bolt of "Everything is Karate" to the right. Starts up and left of "karate". Much easier of course but still quite steep and bouldery on the same awesome quality granite as "Everything is Karate".

Climb a short vertical face past one bolt, pass a few feet of easy ground and climb another short vertical section past a bolt.  Continue up the  fun slab (crux) past three more bolts to undercling flakes (some fragile sections, optional small cams) and easier climbing.  Finish at the 'Rewritten' anchor (mussy hooks).

Note that the first short vertical section has a right (of bolt) and left (of bolt) variation. Left is a bit sequential, right is much easier.

This route was initially called 'Slippery Slope,' was renamed to 'Ripples' due to an already existing route with the same name and then was (once again) renamed to 'Ripples Revisited' for the same reason.

Start in a shallow, right facing crack/corner a few feet up the hill to the right of 'Crack of Noon.' Continue up, trending right past an undercling on big holds to a bolt.  Pass a large hole, clip another bolt, and mantle on a prominent shelf/ledge.  Walk left on the shelf until it thins out, then move over the lip (crux) and follow three bolts on positive edges to mussy hook anchors.  Note that this is the LEFT hand route, not the one that is closest to the mantle.

Imho the best route on the cliff.  Fun, fun, fun!  Do note that a fall from the shelf, before clipping the 3rd bolt, would be quite nasty.

Far left side of Crack of Noon buttress. Start in an obvious steep awesome looking dihedral corner. Clip bolts through the beginning and gradually steepening dihedral. For 2-3 bolts it is game-on with hard desperate moves. The rock is super clean. Eventually you clip a bolt and the crux is over leading to a nice 10b-ish crack finish protected by small cams and stoppers. Easy fun finish on natural gear.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Crack of Noon Buttress