I actually am pretty sure that we are not the first guys to do this, but we asked around and nobody could tell us anyone who did it so...

This route is better than you think it is going to be. Tristan and I would stare at it every time we headed up to the limestone. Finally we decided to just do it.

Little hidden jugs appear on the way up to the steep finger crack. The crack itself is clean and takes great small cams. We were laughing at ourselves when we hit the big horn at the end of the steep part.

You can work your way over to the first bolted ledge of Lounge Lizards or be a man and continue right up George.

Stay out of the "George Direct" corner. Stemming a no no here. Don't do it on this climb! And don't clip any bolts on "George of the Jungle", you don't need em.

Why did we honestly call the route Martha? ...we have our reasons...

Will D.K. ever catch up to the new route pace? I dunno...that new guidebook may never get done! He he he...

Martha (A.K.A. "Turtles Crack")

Flavortown

Lounge Lizards P2/3

Lounge Lizards Variation

George of the Jungle

Curious George

Hello McFly

George

Crushed Velvet

Bloody Mary

Last Call

Another for the Road

Lounge Lizards P1

George Direct

This is the best way to get to the

George

routes located to the east of the arete. It is a quick and easy trad route, but there are a couple of nice moves. Once on top you have legions of sport routes to tickle your fancy.

Climbing the overhanging prow, I found that using the good holds on the right arete made it easier. Fun climbing and a good position over the canyon despite being a hidden route.

Pitches two and three of a three-pitch bolted route combined. After the third bolt there are two choices: go right for a 5.8 variation or stay straight (the left bolt) for this route.

Fairly easy climbing through the first part, a short vertical section, then easy climbing to a ledge topped by a headwall.  Climb straight up through the remaining three bolts on the headwall for a middle-ish 10 section, or decide discretion is the better part of valor and stay right on jugs at the arete for a 7- or 8-ish pusillanimous (discreet - I mean discreet) experience (you can still clip the bolts). Lower or rap to the belay, or walk off the top.

This has afternoon shade and was quite comfortable on a 90 degree late afternoon.

A fun route with some strenuous moves and some of that I-really-dont-want-to-fall-right-now feeling.

Climb to the third bolt on easy terrain then bear right into the steep corner. Clip the fourth bolt and the fun begins. Stem, crimp, hold on for dear life and clip the fifth bolt. Look up to the sixth bolt, decide theres no way, then make a tenuous move to your right and the arete. Breath easier and continue up through the sixth bolt and to the anchors. Lower or rap back to the belay.

Since this is on the northeast of

George

it is in the shade in the afternoon. It was comfortable even on a 90 degree day.

Overall a fun route but the best part is quite short.

The obvious roof near the bottom. pretty darn powerful underclings to crimpers. The upper prow is only 5.10b or so, but incredible. You can climb this upper part alone by skipping around to the 5.9 start up the chimney to the right.

Easily accessed, often not crowded, and great exposure.

Curious George

starts up the little gully on the south about 30 feet up from the gate and

The Kitchen

. Look for the large chockstone lodged about twenty feet up in the gully.

Curious George

is the set of bolts running up the west side of the arete.

Best to start on the left side of the prow up crimps to some really rad bigger moves (really big holds) on the upper part. Keep your feet off the left wall!

The formations eponymous route is an exposed-feeling, exciting bit of climbing with good protection where needed.

From the lower, midpoint, bolted anchor on the east side climb out onto some large positive edges with no real opportunity for protection until ten feet or so from the belay (so dont fall). At this point follow the thin, corner crack up the overhanging bulge. The moves can be strenuous, but good nut placements and microcam placements abound which will ease the stress level (a #1 C3 fits quite well in one location).

Clip the bomber bolt and grunt over the top of the overhanging section. The rest of the climb is considerably easier on large, positive edges, which is a good thing because there is very little opportunity for protection (a #2 DMM Peenut is helpful).

Continue straight up, or bear left a little following a shallow, flaring almost-crack that has one opportunity where a #2 C4 sort-of fits.

Over the top onto interesting, smooth, and rounded quartzite. A 70m rope will get to the ground in a single rappel on the west side; a 60m rope will require two raps.

A long, wide adventure on the far left side of George. From the belay atop the first pitch of Lounge Lizards, head left and then up to a steep hand and fist crack. Rest atop the steep part before enduring unpleasant offwidth climbing to the top.

There's some loose stuff on the lower half of the pitch, so climb gingerly.

This is the surprisingly fun gaping maw left of George. From the Lounge Lizards p.1 belay, climb straight up the corner till you get to the awkward pod. Climb out of the pod on steep rock with good face holds (with fun exposure!). Stick your arm deep inside when you need to, otherwise just use the flakes and face holds. Belay at a couple of ring anchors either to the left of the top of the route or the right (look down and over a bit).

An easy fist crack for 50 feet. There aren't too many 4 inch cracks in RC and this is one of them. A super fun climb to place those 4 inch cams that are burning a hole in your backpack.

There are quite a few face holds also, like most Rock Canyon cracks, which makes it the easy grade.

At the top of

George

. Best to climb

Lounge Lizards P1

first and head back a short ways to a nice slab. Adds one last really fun pitch. Perfect, sequential crimps lead to an obvious crux near the end. Well worth the extra time.

Often tried and often backed off...there are actually some pretty darn good holds that seem to hide pretty well. If you hang on past the second bolt, it eases off a lot.

Absolutely goes trad. if you can muster the courage to ignore the big fat RED bolts.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in George