A surprisingly nice line for the grade; excellent for the novice leader.

Scramble up to a ledge, then move right to the start of a right-leaning ramp.  Climb the ramp past two bolts, then move left onto the face and continue up using good plates and jugs.

La Escalada

Buccaneer

Glory and Consequence

Ledgends of Limonite (direct start)

Edge-a-Sketch

Little T-Bone

Ledgends of Limonite

Touch of Grey

Momma Cindy

Ohio Arts

Dynabolt Gold

Bitter Ray of Sunshine

Weapons of Mass Deception

Thin and balancy climbing up the route while wandering back and forth to clip the bolts

Like most of the routes in this section, the start might be the toughest move you encounter here.  Pull the fun roof and continue up the plated face to the top.  Great climbing for the grade.

The crux for the direct start is the first few moves under the large roof.

Thin crimpers and long reaches! There is a plate below this route labeling "Ohio Arts" (5.12b). This is actually the 3-bolt pitch right above Edge-a-Sketch.

This is a great beginners 5.10 trad route.  Lots of great pro and tons of jugs to place it from.

Just to the right of Dynabolt Gold, look for a hand crack about midway up the route.  Make some difficult moves to start the route to some easy climbing into a large hole.  Clip the bolts at the roof of the hole.  Be sure to extend the lower bolt for drag.  Pull the roof (crux) and get established into the crack above using large plated jugs.  Follow the plated jugs around the crack to the anchors.

Start as for Glory and Consequences, then trend left and up a fun arete to the top.

Tricky start up to a big ledge.  Thin edges and big jugs to the top.  A couple of long moves but good clipping holds and stances.  Crux is down low around the third bolt

Start under a difficult roof on a jug.  Move out of the roof using small holds to a small ledge.  Make the difficult move over the roof (crux) to get established on the ledge above.  Follow the technical and sustained section above using slopers, crimps, and the occasional good hold.

Enjoy the massive jugs at above the slab and figure out how to use them to establish yourself on the wall above. Some choose to bring up their belayer to get a better belay and stay off the slab below in case of a fall.

Hardest moves are down low figuring out the start.  Depending on height there are a couple different variations.  Shorter people usually find it easier to start farther right on the overhang or jumping to the good hold just out of reach.  After clipping the first bolt it is more like 9+ all the way to the anchors. Big holds and lots of rests if needed.

Mantle start to a large ledge.  Then huge jugs from there to a small roof with jugs to pull it on.  Mantle start is the crux for sure

Begin in a dihedral to the left of the main Great Wall climbing area.  On the right side wall is a finger crack leading to a roof.  Start up the dirty dihedral to get to the finger crack.  Follow the crack to the roof (crux) and traverse left and up to reach the left facing flake.  Follow the left facing flake to a small roof with a hand crack.  Move onto the face and up the short hand crack to the anchor.

This route does not see much traffic and is often dirty and covered with large spiders.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Great Wall