Straight up the center of the Dilithium Crystal between Mind Meld and Lt Uhura, lies this beautiful, technical face.  The business comes early with several thin, bouldery moves leading to balancey moves leftward to gain the flake.  Good rests lead up to a strange bulge and a pumpy finish.  Sustained and excellent. Lower end .12c compared to many other Gorge routes of the grade.  Can be combined with the finishes of Romulan Roof or Klingon for a greater pump.

Phasers on Stun

Stardate

Vulcan Variation

Mega Meld

Liquid Fire

Klingon

Not for Sale

Lieutenant Uhura

Mind Meld

Romulan Roof

Enterprise

Quantum Torpedo

Coffee Achiever

Extreme Caffeine

Lava Java

Trouble with Tribbles (aka Impulse Power)

Dr Claw

Shuttle Craft

Photon Torpedo

Daily Grind

Start on the classic Mind Meld except stay on the arete the entire way for 35m to a good stance and anchor at the top. For no apparent reason mind meld used to merge with photon torpedo's anchor, which made for traffic issues and confusion at the anchor. Now mind meld can be done fully independent of Photon.

Grade is still 12b and crux is still at the bottom. The new Mega Meld extension is merely 11b/c on the head wall with super fun exposed climbing.

This short climb is on the arete of the small formation between

Lava Java

and

Klingon

. It's got some interesting moves and would be a great climb if it weren't over so quickly. The crux comes between the two bolts when the face holds run out and you must slap up the arete.

Climb Klingon, but at the 5th bolt head up and right.

Climb a face with decent rock quality up to a seam that head sharply right for 2 bolts.  The upper seam is what makes the climb memorable.  Too bad it doesn't go on longer.

Either chimney up to the 3rd bolt (standard/original start) or fire off the .11c direct start into the pumpy upper wall.  Head slightly left and then back right through a short overhang (the crux) to the highest anchors on the wall.

The route that splits off to the right at the 5th bolt is called the "Vulcan Variation" and checks in at .11d, but is not as classic.

This route is considered a gorge classic.

Start on Enterprise (first 3 bolts).  Attack the roof via boulder sequences then two options present themselves:  it is believed the right variation is harder; left variation has more moves but most feel it to be easier.  The original line went left.

Even though this pitch has a significant blemish, it has so much good climbing on it that I still have to give it top marks.

The better start follows the arete left of the chimney and sets you up for an off-vertical technical crux after the first bolt.  The problem with this approach is that the first bolt can be a difficult and dangerous clip for the reach impaired.  The alternate start is to climb easily up the chimney, traversing left onto Lt. U at its third bolt; the route loses at least a star when done this way.

A compromise approach is to climb the chimney, clip the third bolt, downclimb to the ground, then climb the direct line toproped, leading on after the third bolt.  The climbing above the third bolt is steep, juggy and exciting with an endurance crux getting to the last bolt.

Extra value: a huge, clean pendulum is to be had after cleaning the last bolt while lowering.

Mind Meld is the aesthetic SE arete of the Dilitium Crystal.  The first 25' are quite bouldery and have difficult clips, but the climbing remains sustained beyond this as it ascends the arete via a series of one and two finger pockets; eventually the climb veers left to join Photon Torpedo.

A fun route with really interesting, powerful movement.  Easily toproped from the anchors on Photon Torpedo.

Start is the same as for Klingon except, instead of going right at the midway point for Klingon, go left up over the obvious big roof.

One of the four classic "E" routes from Tom Herbert, this Gorge classic takes an amazing line out a substantial roof on the left side of the Dilithium Crystal formation.

A vertical face quickly gains the imposing roof which is much easier than initial appearances might suggest and is rife with positive holds, albeit a bit strenuous. The crux lies just above the lip as you struggle to get established on the slab above; once over it's a matter of holding it together to the anchors.

Start up the polished crimping of Photon Torpedo, at the 5th bolt break left, turn a roof and continue up a long vertical face.

Coffee Achiever is a nice steep technical face climb that goes great with Extreme Caffeine just to the right of it.

A little loose and kind of contrived but very good movement and plenty of it.  Move right after the 4th bolt to avoid some large loose blocks.

This gorge classic has two cruxes:  a bouldery start leads to a long, pumpy headwall that will stick with you 'till the anchors.

Nice warm up for the harder moderates to the right. Great route for the grade.

Good sport climb with some arete moves and an exciting roof pull.  Some of the bolts above the roof don't seem like they are in the best spots

Docked two stars for a contrived crux.

Most of this pitch is excellent, steep, clean crimping.  The slithery crux, at the 2nd-to-last bolt, would be an excellent change of pace if it were not easily avoided at a much easier grade by hand-traversing left on jugs for about 4'.

The crux of this route can be sussed from the mound behind it.  A sustained route with fun, bouldery moves.

A sustained mega-classic.  Crimp your way up the center of the face, pulling a small "roof" and continuing up a juggy face.

Once the crimping starts, expect to keep on crimping for a couple of bolts before it lets up.

Pumpy start to moderate face. When the angle eases, diagonal right up easy ledges to bolts leading up a vertical crack weakness. Crux up high near last bolt.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Dilithium Crystal