This is a long line that starts up a mini-buttress just left of a tree.  Can be done in two pitches, but a 60m rope works fine.

Start up a short slab with your right fingers in a good crack past 3 closely spaced bolts.  Note, the 3rd bolt can pin the rope a bit as you climb above.  Ascend the short, right-facing dihedral, (optional cam) or force the line a couple feet right on face holds.  Surmount the bulge, move up to the 2 bolt anchor.  You can belay or continue up past 5 more bolts on easy, blocky terrain along an arete of sorts to another 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.

Note on P2, there is a weird variation that can go right from the 2nd bolt, clipping an additional 3 more bolts in 10 feet and popping over a roof to clip another bolt or two, 5.8.  It will add rope drag and may not be worth it.  Bring more QDs with longer slings if you do this variation.

The first 15 feet warrant a star, but the upper bit may detract from this star.

Friends

Smallville

Hustle

Side Dish

Thunderhead

Firestarter

Off the Grid

Erika

Rain Delay (Whodathunkit, led prior to the bolts)

Full Respect

Spooked

Summer Nights

Fire and Rain

Weeds

Lightning Strike

Loyalty

Dexter

Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun

Reunion

Nurse Jackie

Rain Check

Quick Silver

Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Rain Check)

Respect

Californication

Find a short, left-facing dihedral of easy difficulty. Head up. Climb a short right-facing dihedral. From here there are 2 options, straight over a little roof 5.10 R or traverse right 8 feet and back left above. Then angle up and right. You could join

Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Rain Check)

finish or angle right across slabs (crux) with marginal protection until you are under a small overlap/roof. Traverse right and up and finally you are there. Hmmm. Not sure it's worth a star, but it was lead ground-up and made for a nice little adventure.

Rap 180 feet from the tree or 3rd Class+ down the right side of the buttress.

In 2009, this line was effectively retrobolted with probably 4-5 lines crossing it and scattering a bunch of bolts that effectively make it no longer R rated and removed the adventure from this climb.

Addendum:

in late 10/09, we were informed that this line had been climbed ground up at least back in 1997 and was not named at that time. Ed Ash has also indicated he climbed all over this rock in the 1980s. So, this line has been climbed by multiple parties safely without bolts and the bolts diminish the adventure of the line.

Also, recall that this line had been climbed by multiple parties before bolts ever appeared on this cliff. This climb goes to the top of the cliff.

Addendum: this is not classified as a sport route, because it did not have bolts when it was initially ascended and after multiple additional ascents, and it does NOT end at the Mussy hooks. It goes to the top of this little crag. Most will want gear to climb this route even after the retrobolts.

This is a route that starts on funky terrain but ascends a brief, interesting, crux past an "ear" of sorts.  If you stretch, it's sort of reminiscent of a mini-"ear" pitch on Primrose.

This has a weird start with a bolt before you start, bolt on a block, then you move right on funky, crumbly terrain with rock scars. Go up to a black (rappable) hanger below an overlap. There are two choices: try the funky hand jam / gaston under the ear (brutish and scrunched) or the more improbable looking palm smearing of the outside of the ear. Finish at a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks. Oddly, there are 2 bolts with no hangers just left of the anchor.

This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

This is currently the 2nd from the left of the bolted routes on this buttress.  It starts on what appears to be a smoothish slab.

Hop onto the slab (best part).  Find a nice left foot edge and reach for the diagonally thin crack (crux).  Scamper up to a ledge, you can protect with a #1 or #2 Camalot, then a yellow or possibly red Alien.  Angle up and right to 2 bolt anchors with Mussy hooks.  With the bolts so close, you could probably traverse further right to select between this route and the next 2 route's anchors.  Note, the two key slab holds feel like they will round down and become less positive with traffic.

Addendum: some folks say this is 11- now.

It's probably between 1-2 stars.  The route to the right is better.

This had been given a name within the database, but someone has deleted it. Now others have provided the name, Hustle.  This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

This is currently the farthest left line.  It has 3 bolts and probably 5.9 climbers might want additional traditional pro, but it can be led as a 5.8+/5.9 (5.6 R) climb without.

Go up and find a brief crux between bolts 1 & 2.  Some folks find no crux moves here. Find easy terrain with wide fingers cracks for protection.  Some folks find the crux to be near the 3rd bolt.  Clip a final bolt and reach for the 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.

This had been given a name within the database, but someone has deleted it.  Now others have provided the name, Side Dish.  This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

This is one of the nicer lines at this crag.  It ascends a slab to an overlap in the center of the northwest aspect of this crag.

The start is kind of weird.  There is a bolt clippable from the ground on the right, ignore it.  Ascend the right side of this nook past a bolt.  Moving up you could clip a bolt on this block on the right, but I wouldn't.  Step up onto a nice slab past 3 more bolts to an overlap.  Choice time.  You could force a double undercling, get your feet up move over the overlap or you can move slightly right and more gracefully surmount the overlap.  Continue up to the 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks on the left, 70', or go up higher to yet another 2 bolt anchor, ~85-90'.  The higher set of anchors will add rope drag.

Others have provided a name, Thunderhead.  This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

This is a bolted line with which starts to the right of Rain Delay.

Start under an overlap, 9+, and pop over. Continue up to another overlap, 9+, and work your feet up on slopey holds. Continue up and angle back right to a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.

This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

Why climb just one route, when you can climb part of ~15 routes in one pitch? This visionary route climbs at least 5 or 6 feet of new terrain. If you are interested in making new friends, it is probably best attempted on a busy summer weekend.

Start with the first 2 or 3 bolts of

Hustle

(sport crux) then follow the right-rising flake system to the roof on

Firestarter

. The trad crux is right before you join that line. There is rope eating flake for those who don't pay attention. Traverse under the roof, and continue angling up and right to finish on the anchors above

Quick Silver

.

Bring up your partner and rap.

This is the right variation of a threesome of variations up a slab on the northwest aspect of this crag.

Start up Quicksilver until just below the roof.  Choose the right-angling set of bolts, find a second crux (10) and fire for the 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks on the right.

Some have called this 5.10.

This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

This is a good route - one of the better ones at this cliff. Start about 20 right of the obvious difficult slab climbing of

Full Respect

where there is a small overhang about 10 feet off the ground. This one climbs through the left side of the overhang.

Stem up, make a difficult first clip, then use a left sidepull that is not nearly as good as you hope to pull over the little roof.

After about 3 more bolts, another crux is surpassed with good pro. You get slopey feet and hands for two moves, then it's easy all the way to the top.

This was supposedly climbed solo by Ed Ash in the 1980s.

It was cleaned (again?) of fairly large chunks of rock by Alan Light before 2001 and led easily on gear. Someone deleted the original submission on this website for unknown reasons. Alan thought it was a first ascent and named it Whodathunkit. Subsequently, it was retrobolted in 2009. One of the energized bolters was willing to go and look at the crag to try to figure out which retrobolts could be removed to respect that this line could be easily climbed by a competent leader on gear. However, once they found Ed Ash and his solo ascent assertions from 1980s, all willingness to meet evaporated.

This is the left fork variation of currently the 4th bolted line from the left on this buttress. Use your good slab shoes.

The crux is shared on the bottom slab with the right variation. Ascend a slab with small holds and a key left gaston with tenuous feet after the 3rd clip.  Move up to a hanging slab at the 6th bolt. Move left with funky feet. There is one more longer reach and then easy terrain to the top with a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.

Note, those with lesser slab footwork may find the crux stiff for 11-, rated by a good slab climber (not me). Some have called this 11+.

This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

Note, I climbed it, and I don't really climb 5.12 anything.

Per

Bruno Hache

: this climbs the first 5 bolts up a slab. Get 1-3 gear placements in the undercling crack, and finish on the upper right hand bolted portion of Respect, NOT UP LEFT.

There is a variation called Fully Respectful, 5.12-. Climb the first 5 bolts of Full Respect, get one gear placement, then climb up left at 5.10c-ish to a 2-Mussy hook top anchor.

This is the route with the small roof that makes it easy to identify.  Fire and Rain also starts here but traverses hard left right away.

Ascend featured terrain past a loose downward pointing tooth (beware) past 5 bolts straight up to the small roof.  Note, there is another stray bolt going right below the roof that may be used to connect with

Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Rain Check)

or

Rain Check

.  Lieback or jam (painful) with your right hand and get up to a fingerlock / hole and get your feet up.  Continue up on easier terrain to a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.

Some might argue that this is 10a.  It may warrant a 9+/10-, but that isn't an option.

This is the easier left variation of a three some that starts in a small nook of sorts up a slab.

Start up as for all 3 variations past 2 bolts, veer left on easier slabbing past 4 more bolts.  Step over a small overlap (crux) and get the anchors with Mussy hooks.

You could add a bit of variety on naturally protected terrain just to the left of the start...or start on the line to the left.  There are lots of options especially with routes so close together.

Others have provided a name, Summer Nights.  This may have been climbed by Ed Ash in the 1980s.

This is currently the 6th bolted line from the left on this buttress and starts with beige hangers.  It joins

Firestarter

at about 1/2 height.

This starts just to the right of

Firestarter

below a hanging arete.  The crux is in the first 10 feet as you try to get secure on smeary feet and get into a layback on the hanging arete.  There is a stray bolt up and right of the 2nd bolt which may be another variation starting from the next route to the left.  Ignore that bolt for this variation.  Move up past 4 more bolts and traverse left into

Firestarter

. Continue up to a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.

Make sure to clean off your shoes before you start this route.

This may have been climbed by Ed Ash in the 1980s.

On the far right end of this crag is a pair of bolted starts to a short, right-facing dihedral.  This goes up the right start with the 2 bolts.

Start onto a micro rib with a crux at the beginning.  After the 2nd bolt, move into the dihedral with traditional pro and finish at a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.  You could continue this past another bolt to a 75' anchor with Mussy hooks.

Ohers have provided a name, Weeds.  This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

This is a pleasant, non-strenuous, technical bit of climbing.  It starts just to the right of

Crack Where The Sun Don't Shine

, a small, hanging, right-facing dihedral.

Move up pleasant slab to a good rest at an undercling ~20 feet up.  Delicately move up using opposition moves on a bit of near vertical terrain.  There may be a left hand deadpoint.  50', worth the effort.

Apparently you can use the arete on the right to make it easier.

This had been given a name within the database, but someone has deleted it. Others have provided a name, Lightning Strike.  This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

This is probably the most pleasant of the bolted routes on this crag.  This is currently the 3rd bolted line from the left of the bolted routes on this buttress.

Find this start with 3 bolts on the right edge of a big flake.  Move right, pop over a little overlap, enjoy pleasant moves to the top.  Note, you may clip the bolt from the route to the left or to the right for the 7th clip.

Caveat Emptor:

one fellow apparently fell, flipping, and breaking an ankle on this route, so pay attention.  Bring small cams if this is near your limit.  Some now rate this 9+.

This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

Hmmm.  This is a funky line up very low 5th or possibly 4th class terrain.  It's not completely clear that this is a route, but there is this lonely bolt.

On the farthest reaches of this right side of this crag is a stray bolt on the margin of climbable terrain.  Go up past this lone bolt.  Force yourself to stay right of the bolt line,

Nurse Jackie

, to the left.  Get to a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.  Move on.

Others have provided a name, Dexter.  This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

This line ascends principally low end difficulty terrain with a short crux.  Start up a blunt arete on very easy terrain past a chopped stump and chopped bush past 4 bolts to a ledge.  Find a brief crux above this ledge.  Continue up on indistinct terrain.  At one point you will see a cluster of bolts on the left, ignore these.  Pop over an easy bulge/roof on jugs to a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.

Note the gouges on the tree to the left.

This is on the lean side of a star.

Others have provided a name for this, Reunion.  This may have been climbed in the 1980s.

This is on the far right side of this crag.  It ascends a low angled, blunt arete.  Its crux is probably right at the start.

Hop aboard, scamper up past 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (45') with Mussy hooks, ideally continue past another bolt to another 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.

Others have provided a name, Nurse Jackie.  This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

This is on the lean side of a star.

This line starts with the first 50-60' of

Crack Where The Sun Don't Shine

, an obvious hanging dihedral ~18 feet off the ground. Break off left at a tiny pillar on easy terrain to a set of anchors with Mussy hooks.

Note, 10 of these bolts on this line are directly on

Crack Where The Sun Don't Shine

.

Addendum: this was originally described differently, but someone pointed out to us the intentions of the energized retrobolter.

Others have provided a name, Rain Check.  This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.  Some call this 5.8+.

This is the center variation of three options that starts in the nook on this northwest aspect of this crag.  It has a brief crux with the bulk of the difficulties in its second half.

Start up in a nook past 2 bolts.  Continue up a slab with a footsy crux (a bit squeezed here, since you can reach left a touch bolts on the left variation - which would give a lower grade).  You could strain a bit harder and eliminate a good hold on the left to challenge yourself.  You can also easily veer left and make the route go at 5.10. Go up to an overlap, choose the left of 2 options here (going right is the route Erika).  Find a second crux (10) and fire for the 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks on the left.

Some have called this 5.10.

This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

This was originally done as a traditionally protected climb without any bolts for years, if not decades.

You start where the climber's eye says there may be a natural line connecting cracks. The original protection was small cams (Aliens). You aim for the corner/crack above.

Sadly, this was retrobolted in 2009 with 4 bolts. Some traverse right to join Lightning Strike at its sixth bolt. Now ~10 bolts are easily clippable from the first 60 feet of this line. Sadly, there are 3 bolts before where you would get your first piece of protection. This was an established trad line called The Crack Where Sun Don't Shine.  It is now more commonly done as the sport route

Rain Check

.

Begin just right of the sharp arete of "

Loyalty

". Climb the corner (gear) to a bolt and the first crux. At the bolt, step right, and continue to traverse up and right following the flake (gear) and eventually crossing over the bolted route to the right, "

Full Respect

". After crossing "

Full Respect

", a thin face with bolts will appear above and further right. Climb through the crux clipping two bolts then cruise to the anchors on more bolts as the route eases off.

On the far right end of this crag is a pair of bolted starts to a short, right-facing dihedral.  This goes up the left start with the 3 bolts.

Start onto a micro rib with a crux at the beginning.  After the 3rd bolt, move into the dihedral with traditional pro and finish at a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.  You could continue this past another bolt to a 75' anchor with Mussy hooks.

Others have provided a name, Californication.  This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag